Giallomania, Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro climb new route on Monte Spitz
Giallomania (290m, 7c/8a, 7a obl.) the new rock climb first ascended between March and October 2014 by Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro up the west face of Mount Spitz in Val Gadena (Valsugana, Italy). The report Alessio Roverato and the route topo.
Those who know me know that I have a serious weakness: you could call it Giallomania, yellowmania. That attraction, sometimes irresistible, towards yellow rock faces... So here I am, dangling off one of the most repulsive sections of the west face of Monte Spitz on what seems to be an upside down staircase. But while the attraction is strong when my feet are firmly on the ground, it’s a completely different matter when up up there, in the middle on this yellow sea, trying to escape via a line that goes free.
Perhaps it’ll be easier after that roof? Hmm… will I manage to get past it without "tumbling" too often? I certainly hope so… It’s always the same questions that run through my mind as I rest for a second on the last piece of pro. And what would have happened had I given the grey slabs a go, instead of following this unhealthy whim of tackling the yellow rock? Surely that would have been better? But now it’s too late, I’m started and so I’ve got to finish the business. Next time though I’ll choose something different, yellow rock can go to hell! But deep down I know that the next time will be exactly like this one… It’s an illness, this Giallomania.
I experienced all of this with Angela who, apart from accompanying me in life, accompanies me to these places, a bit snubbed and forgotten by most, but always wonderful.
by Alessio Roverato
TOPO: Giallomania, Val Gadena, Valsugana
Alessio Roverato thanks SCARPA, Climbing Technology and Montura