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Martina Cufar climbing Vizija 8c at Misja Pec in Slovenia
Photo by Marko Prezelj
Martina Cufar climbing Vizija 8c at Misja Pec in Slovenia
Photo by Marko Prezelj
PORTFOLIO / gallery Portfolio: Cufar sends 8c!

Cufar sends 8c!


On 21 December Martina Cufar from Slovenia redpointed her first 8c, Vizija at Misja pec, Slovenia.

There can be no better way to finish off the year than with a personal best. And this is exactly what Martina Cufar must have thought when, on 21 December, she gave herself a beautiful Christmas present by sending her first ever 8c, Vizija at Misja Pec.

The Slovenian had briefly attempted the 35m line in December 2004, but due to the tight competition calendar she had to wait until this November before giving the route a proper shot. As she recounts “I found a new sequence to get passed the boulder crux and was really optimistic. I was sure I would able to do it next time; but with some bad luck with rainy weather (wet tufa, damp holds), health and torn skin this "next" time was only the fourth time; I did it on the first winter day, December 21st. The conditions were perfect; sunny, warm and dry. The moves that I did in my mind so many times in last months finally became reality. At the top I felt goose bumps all over my body and even some tears of joy came in to my eyes, which never happened to me before on the top ofaroute or even when I won a competition. Those feelings showed me that it was worth being patient and training hard. With Vizija I finished the season, which was not so successful on the competition side, but quite good on rock; I climbed ten 8a's and one 8a+ on-sight, one 8b/b+ after work, and I visited many places; El Chorro, Corsica, Rodellar, Zillertal, Ceuse... Happy New Year to all of you!”

With this ascent the recently crowned Slovenian champion enters the restricted club of women who have climbed the legendary 8c grade. These include, amongst others, Josune Bereziartu from Spain (Honky Tonky 8c, Campezzo, Spain 1998) Liv Sansoz from France (Hasta la Vista 8c/c+, Mt. Charleston, USA, 2000), Marietta Uhden from Germany (Sonne im Herzen 8c, Kochel, Germany, 2001), Beth Rodden (USA) and Alexandra Taistra fromPoland.

Congratulations Martina, see you in 2006!

Martina Cufar 2005
On sight
1. Paieda 8a+, Rodellar, 10. 10. 2005
2. Maneras de vivir 8a, Terradets, 16. 10. 2005
3. Coliseum 8a, Rodellar, 9. 10. 2005
4. El corredor de la muerte 8a, Rodellar, 10. 10. 2005
5. Gracias fina 8a, Rodellar, 12. 10. 2005
6. Ambicion cero 8a, Rodellar, 12. 10. 2005
7. Pepe el bolido 8a, El Chorro, 13. 3. 2005 np
8. Chimere au loin 8a, Restonica , 15. 4. 2005
9. Le syndrome trapez 8a, Restonica , 15. 4. 2005
10. Cost of freedom 8a, Tournoux, 30. 7. 2005
11. Cuirs et dentelles 7c+/8a, St. Florent, 18. 4. 2005
12. Le chien chia sur le chat chiant 7c+ /8a, Col du Chat,17. 7. 2005
13. Rain man 7c+/8a, Zillertal, 18. 8. 2005
14. Maskoking 7c+/8a, Rodellar, 13. 10. 2005
15. Porrot 7c+/8a El Chorro, 8. 3. 2005

1. Santa Esmeralda, 8a, Costiera, 22. 1. 2005

1. Vizija 8c, Misja pec, 21. 12. 2005
2. Nicht losslassen konnenn 8b/b+, Warmbad, 9. 6. 2005
3. El complot 8a+, El Chorro, 6. 3. 2005
4. Lingua secca 8a+, St. Florent, 21. 4. 2005
5. Flatliners 8a+, Warmbad, 12. 5. 2005
6. Mordor 8a+, Warmbad, 23. 5. 2005
7. Canniballe 8a+, La Balme 22. 7. 2005
8. Millenium 8a+, Terradets, 16. 10. 2005
9. Silent alarm 8a+, Bitnje, 27. 9. 2005
10. Corps et ame 8a, La Turbie, 12. 2. 2005
11. Lourdes 8a, El Chorro, 9. 3. 2005
12. Rima libre 8a El Chorro, 14. 3. 2005
13. Cosa Strechu 8a, St. Florent, 12. 4. 2005
14. Modern art 8a, Goltschach, 21. 5. 2005
15. Chiave stella 8a, Casso, 18. 6. 2005
16. Venus 8a, La Balme, 16. 7. 2005
17. Zivljenje 8a, Kupljenik, 29. 8. 2005

News archive Martina Cufar
News archive Josune Bereziartu
Liv Sansoz redpoints “Hasta la Vista” 8c/c+
Climbing at Misja pec, Slovenia





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