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Janja Garnbret at the second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2017 at Chongqing in China
Photo by IFSC / Eddie Fowke
Jongwon Chon climbing to victory in the second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2017 at Chongqing in China
Photo by IFSC / Eddie Fowke
Iuliia Kaplina during the first stage of the Speed World Cup 2017 at Chongqing in China
Photo by IFSC / Eddie Fowke
Aleksei Rubstov in the second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2017 at Chongqing in China
Photo by IFSC / Eddie Fowke

Climbing World Cup Boulder & Speed: China victory for Janja Garnbret, Jongwon Chon, Iuliia Kaplina, Vladislav Deulin

by

The second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2017 took place at Chongqing in China on 22 and 23 April, as did the first stage of the Speed World Cup. Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and South Korea’s Jongwon Chon won the Boulder, while the Russians Iuliia Kaplina and Vladislav Deulin won the Speed.

Janja Garnbret and Jongwon Chon took a deserved win at Chongqing in China during the first of three Asian stages of the Climbing World Cup 2017. After the difficult Open and Semis, the finals kicked off to a great start with a spectacular first problem. Aleksei Rubstov, the first out of isolation, set the pace by flashing it, followed swiftly by Japanese trio comprised of Kai Hamada, Keita Watabe and Tomoa Narasaki, as well as Jongwon Chon. The second problem provided a similar scene, with flash ascents by Rubstov, Narasaki and Chon, while the third problem was solved by Chon only - on his second go - while all other athletes failed to make the zone. The South Korean demonstrated he was worth his gold medal by making short work of problem #4. Special mention goes to Rubstov who fell victim to the new rules - which state that the problems have to be sent within the allocate time frame and no longer after the buzzer - when he matched the top one second after time had run out.

In the women’s competition problem #1 proved nigh impossible and was sent by Garnbret only who capitalised on this early lead to send all four final problems and win her first senior Boulder World Cup stage. Shauna Coxsey demonstrated her usual form while Akiyo Noguchi celebrated an impressive comeback, but all they could do was follow Garnbret’s lead and settle for second and third respectively.

In the Speed event Russia’s Vladislav Deulin beat his teammate Stanislav Kokorin to win his first senior comp, while Iuliia Kaplina stopped the clock after a mere 7.46 seconds to beat her previous best of 7.53 seconds and set a a new world record.


IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Chongqing (CHN) 2017
Boulder men
1 Jongwon Chon KOR 4t6 4b5
2 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2t2 3b3
3 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 2t2 3b3
4 Keita Watabe JPN 2t3 3b3
5 Kai Harada JPN 1t1 3b4

6 Manuel Cornu FRA 1t4 3b8
7 Tsukuru Hori JPN
8 Jakob Schubert AUT
9 Kokoro Fujii JPN
10 David Firnenburg GER
11 Rei Sugimoto JPN
12 Jan Hojer GER
13 Nicolas Pelorson FRA
14 Rolands Rugens LAT
15 Meichi Narasaki JPN
16 Yuji Fujiwaki JPN
17 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
18 Kaito Watanabe JPN
19 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
20 Vadim Timonov RUS
21 Rustam Gelmanov RUS
21 Sean Mccoll CAN
23 Moritz Hans GER
23 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS
25 Martin Stranik CZE
25 Sergii Topishko UKR
27 Alfons Dornauer AUT
27 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
29 Mickael Mawem FRA
29 Nathan Phillips GBR
31 Jeremy Bonder FRA
31 Sungjoon Chae KOR
33 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
33 Sungbo Seo KOR
35 Austin Geiman USA
35 Amir Nouri IRI
37 Elan Jonasmcrae CAN
37 Georg Parma AUT
39 Jernej Kruder SLO
39 Andrzej Mecherzynski- Wiktor POL
41 Jabee Kim KOR
41 Domen Skofic SLO
43 Pol Roca Lopez ESP
43 Sergio Verdasco Urizal ESP
45 Chua Dennis SGP
45 Riccardo Piazza ITA
47 Vlas Gavrilov RUS
47 Alex Khazanov ISR
49 Chi-fung Au HKG
49 Alban Levier FRA
51 Gholamali Baratzadeh IRI
51 YuFei Pan CHN
53 Kentin Boulay FRA
53 Wan Tong Lok MAC
55 Artyom Devyaterikov KAZ
55 Ka-chun Yau HKG
57 Jakub Jodlowski POL
57 Hakeem Kasban SGP
59 Sebastien Lazure CAN
59 Sadra Torkamanbout. IRI
61 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
61 Mohammadamin Yazdizad IRI
63 DiChong Huang CHN
63 Ilari Juho Kelloniemi FIN
65 Clément Lechaptois FRA
65 YongCheng Liu CHN
67 Cheung- chi Shoji Chan HKG
67 ZhouWen Huang CHN
69 Hei-yeung Lam HKG
69 HaiBin Qu CHN
71 Orrin Coley GBR
71 Chun-Hsiang Wang TPE
73 Saeed Safari IRI
73 Jongseok Son KOR
75 Guy Lifshitz ISR
75 Amir Maimuratov KAZ
75 Alexey Panfilov KAZ

Boulder women
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 4t11 4b7
2 Shauna Coxsey GBR 3t4 4b5
3 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 3t13 4b13
4 Anna Stöhr AUT 1t3 3b6
5 Alannah Yip CAN 1t3 3b8
6 Stasa Gejo SRB 1t4 3b7

7 Petra Klingler SUI
8 Chloe Caulier BEL
9 Miho Nonaka JPN
10 Monika Retschy GER
11 Katja Kadic SLO
12 Fanny Gibert FRA
13 Sol Sa KOR
14 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
15 Michaela Tracy GBR
16 Hung Ying Lee TPE
17 Katharina Posch AUT
18 Manon Hily FRA
18 Jain Kim KOR
20 Mei Kotake JPN
21 Katarzyna Ekwinska POL
21 Aya Onoe JPN
23 Andrea Kümin SUI
23 Megan Mascarenas USA
25 Flavy Cohaut FRA
25 LaMu Renqing CHN
27 Maëlys Agrapart FRA
27 Anna Tsyganova RUS
29 Alma Bestvater GER
29 Miharu Sotome JPN
31 Lilli Kiesgen GER
31 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
33 Leah Crane GBR
33 Margaryta Zakharova UKR
35 Rong Jiang CHN
35 Di Niu CHN
37 Valeri Kremer ISR
37 Tamara Kuznetsova KAZ
39 ZhuoMa Pubu CHN
39 WangMu Renzeng CHN
41 Kseniia Melnykova UKR
41 Sarah Pearce USA

Speed men
1 Vladislav Deulin RUS 5.91
2 Stanislav Kokorin RUS 5.96
3 Danyil Boldyrev UKR 5.62
4 Bassa Mawem FRA 6.88

5 Aleksandr Shikov RUS
6 Leonardo Gontero ITA
7 Reza Alipourshena. IRI
8 Libor Hroza CZE
9 QiXin Zhong CHN
10 Georgy Artamonov RUS
11 PengHui Lin CHN
12 JinXin Li CHN
13 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS
14 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR
15 Aleksandr Shilov RUS
16 Ludovico Fossali ITA
17 Yongsu Lee KOR
18 Marcin Dzienski POL
19 Alessandro Santoni ITA
20 DiChong Huang CHN
21 Sungjoon Chae KOR
22 Alimzhan Myrzabekov KAZ
23 Artyom Devyaterikov KAZ
24 Alexey Molchanov KAZ
25 FengQi Wang CHN
26 Chi-fung Au HKG
27 Jongseok Son KOR
28 Alexey Panfilov KAZ
29 Andrey Yurin KAZ
30 Sean Mccoll CAN
31 ShuangXi Mo CHN
32 Sungbo Seo KOR
33 YuFei Pan CHN
34 Ka-chun Yau HKG
35 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
36 Sergio Verdasco Urizal ESP
37 Cheung- chi Shoji Chan HKG
38 Hei-yeung Lam HKG
39 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
40 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
41 Pol Roca Lopez ESP
42 Jabee Kim KOR

Speed women
1 Iuliia Kaplina RUS 7.54
2 Mariia Krasavina RUS 7.87
3 Alla Marenych UKR 7.84
4 Anna Tsyganova RUS fall

5 Anouck Jaubert FRA
6 Anna Brozek POL
7 Elena Markusheva RUS
8 Aurelia Sarisson FRA
9 YiLing Song CHN
10 Edyta Ropek POL
11 MingWei Ni CHN
12 Di Niu CHN
13 Assel Marlenova KAZ
14 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS
15 Klaudia Buczek POL
16 Cuilian He CHN
17 WangMu Renzeng CHN
18 Tamara Kuznetsova KAZ
19 Andrea Kümin SUI
20 Alannah Yip CAN

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