Chiusa di Ceraino, new rock climb by Andrea Simonini
The report by Andrea Simonini who made the first ascent of Le Petit Homme et la Grande Femme (120m, 6c+ max, 6b oblig), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Eldorado face at Chiusa di Ceraino, Verona.
Inspired by the play of words used for the routes in the Verdon Gorge, Le Petit Homme et la Grande Femme is the latest climb I bolted on the Eldorado face at Chiusa di Ceraino. This time though I decided to change the rules of the game and to test myself differently: climbing by myself, ground-up, self-belaying.
I have to admit the first sessions were nothing short of electrifying: alone, hung up on the wall like a sausage for hours, no encouragement or comfort from any climbing partner, plenty of falls and strange chats with my rucksack, "cast away” style.
But I was really motivated to do a good job of it and get to the top alone, and after some beta from Coltri (Sergio Coltri) and a phone call to Rolly (Rolando Larcher), the true artist of self-belaying, I managed to feel at ease in this rather odd dimension.It was an five-day inner journey, as exciting as it was beautiful.
Thoughts came and went, I turned off the mental switch and concentrated only on the next step ahead, fueled by adrenaline, every move was an important gift, something memorable, something that slowly led me to the top... and behind me a new route was born!
The easiest route up the Eldorado face is now complete; its not extreme difficulties and
‘honest’ bolting mean it has all the hallmarks of becoming an instant classic at Chiusa di Ceraino.
Thanks to: Wild Climb, Patagonia, ProAction, birra SLEALE e Laac (Libera Associazione Alpinisti Chiodatori).
by Andrea Simonini
TOPO: Le Petit Homme et la Grande Femme, Chiusa di Ceraino, Verona, Italy