Borna Čujić repeats Il Maratoneta at Paklenica

On 26/03/2015 the 17-year-old Croatian climber Borna Čujić made a rare repeat of Il Maratoneta, the legendary 8b+ sports climb put up by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla at Paklenica, Croatia, in 1987.
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Borna Čujić repeating Il Maratoneta 8b+ at Paklenica in Croatia, freed in 1987 by Maurizio Manolo Zanolla.
archive Borna Čujić
At the end of March 17-year-old Borna Čujić crowned his little big dream of repeating Il Maratoneta, the famous climb situated in the Croatia’s Paklenica National Park. The route in question is the difficult line freed by Manolo back in 1987 that represented - and still represents even today - much more that simply 8b+.

Over the course of the years Il Maratoneta has become a sort of monument to sports climbing, so much so that in almost three decades this smooth overhanging sheet of rock has only been climbed 6 times; after Manolo the chain was successfully clipped by the Slovenians Uros Perko (2001) and Marko Lukic (2002), by Croatia’s Ivan Lisica-Lija (2013) and France’s Quentin Castagnier (2014) and now by Borna Čujić.

The importance of the route can also be understood by another detail: when the park authorities wanted to close access to the sector a few years ago in order to build a small power plant, the Croatian climbers mobilized en masse to successfully save the route.

Čujić repeated Il Maratoneta just before his 18th birthday and he stated "All of the holds are on such perfect places like it's some artist's work. Every move is beautiful…" Furthermore, Čujić added "Although Maratoneta is graded 8b+, it's very old grade and I'd say it could be harder, but anyway Maratoneta isn't climbed for it's grade but for it's status."

After the third repeat by Ivan Lisica-Lija of Il Maratoneta
On 27/01/2013 Croatian climber Ivan Lisica-Lija made the third repeat of Il Maratoneta, the legendary route first climbed by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla at Paklenica (Croatia).

TOPO: Paklenica, Croatia


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