New route dedicated to Cadore Mountain Rescue

On 27 and 28 August Michele Zandegiacomo Mazzon and Simone Corte Pause made the first ascent of a new route on the south face of Cima Auronzo, Dolomites.

PlanetMountain.com

September 2004

Traduci in

On 27 and 28 August Michele Zandegiacomo Mazzon and Simone Corte Pause made the first ascent of a new route on the south face of Cima Auronzo, Dolomites. The route is dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the Auronzo di Cadore Mountain Rescue.

Cima Auronzo, Croda dei Toni, Dolomiti

The route
Via dei 50 anni Soccorso Alpino Auronzo di Cadore
Cima Auronzo (2914m) - Croda dei Toni Group - Cima 12
F.A: Zandegiacomo Mazzon Michele, Corte Pause Simone, 27-28/08/2004
Access: Cima Auronzo (2914m) is the 12th peak in the Croda dei Toni chain. The base of the route in just 5 minutes walk from the bivouac “de Toni”.
Gear: full mountaineering rack, friends, nuts, two 60m ropes.
Descent: abseil down the route. All belays are equipped with two 10mm bolts and maillon rapide.
Grade: VI (A1), with some crux sections VI+ (route length approx. 300mt)
Ascent: The first pitch climbs the grey slab (35m, VI+, 2 pegs, then friends and threads) than traverses left along a scree ledge for approx 60m, before continuing up a series of obvious black vertical cracks (80m, V+/ VI, 4 in-situ pegs, mid-size friends). The cracks, clearly visible from the ground, are broken by comfortable ledges (belays). The crack widens in the upper section of the route (35m, VI+ A1, 4 pegs + 12 special pegs) and transforms into an overhanging chimney (25m, VI, wedged block) which leads to an easy scramble to the summit (80m circa, III- IV).

Climbing in the Dolomites

Photo: The south face of Cima Auronzo with the line of the route Via dei 50 anni del Soccorso Alpino di Auronzo di Cadore; Zandegiacomo Mazzon Michele, Corte Pause Simone, the first ascentionists on the summit.