La farfalla tigre, new mixed climb up Cima Bifora, Monte Nero di Presanella
Giancarlo Bellotti, Fernando Fusari and Giovanni Ghezzi have started their winter climbing season in style with the first ascent of the mixed outing La farfalla tigre (WI4 M6, 430m) on Cima Bifora (Monte Nero di Presanella, Adamello-Presanella group, Central Alps).
This new route that came about almost by chance, from a sudden glance at the face immediately to our left as we approached the classic ice gullies on Monte Nero. Much to our delight the climb developed, one pitch after the next, into a surprisingly logical and beautiful outing.
La farfalla Nera follows the line of least resistance, following the natural features of the face. In-situ gear has been kept to a minimum and some pitches are superb, such as pitches 2 and 3 which are technical but nevertheless sufficiently safe, pitch 6 with its tiring moves up the chimney and off-width crack, and pitch 7 along the crack-lined vertical rock.
The first four pitches were climbed on 31 October 2015, after returning for more pegs the entire ascent was completed the next day, on 01 Novembre 2015 in seven and a half hours.
by Giovanni Ghezzi
TOPO: La farfalla tigre, Cima Bifora, Monte Nero di Presanella