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Utopia

First ascent: Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner 16/12/2018
By: Simon Gietl
Area: Dolomites, Group: Riva di Tures, Peak: Rastentalfall, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

"One of the most beautiful routes I know of these difficulties. The combination of rock, ice and frozen turf make it unique." Utopia was climbed onsight, without adding bolts, all pegs used were left in-situ.

ACCESS

From Bruneck head towards Sand in Taufers and then Rein in Taufers. Shortly before reaching the village the line appears on the right, circa 500m before MFG. Park at the Rieserferner Hütte car park, cross the bridge and walk up to the base of the climb.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route.

GEAR

Friends up to #3 and ice screws.

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Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

M7+/WI5

LENGTH

120 m

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Utopia

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LINK

www.simongietl.it

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