Zero Termico - Cima Ceda Occidentale
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Daniele Bolognani
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archivio Daniele Bolognani
Zero Termico on Cima Ceda Occidentale is an exceptionally logical and beautiful line. It climbs the massive overhanging bands of the lower section by exploiting their weaknesses, then navigates the great yellow roof of the upper wall via an impeccably sculpted chimney on the left before reaching the summit of the immense southwest face.
The route is completely independent and weaves between Fox to its left and L'èpropriobella to its right. Only 3 threads with slings have been left in-situ, as well as 7 pegs, 4 of which protect the curx VII+/VIII- section. Proficiency with placing trad gear is essential.
During the first repeat, given the exposure and difficulty of establishing bombproof belays, bolts were added at belays 1, 2 and 8, while a bolts replaced a peg at belay #3.. All intermediate pegs placed during the FA were left in in-situ.
From belay #3, a single 60-meter free-hanging rappel can be made to return to the ground. The rock quality, apart from a few short sections, is excellent, with the characteristically abrasive texture of Val d’Ambiez. Every pitch is fantastic.
From Rifugio Agostini or Rifugio Cacciatore, follow the Sentiero Palmieri path until below Ceda Occidentale, then scramble up the the scree slope to the base of the black streak directly above the large yellow roof (cairn marks the start). 30 min from Rifugio Agostini. 1h15 min from Rifugio Cacciatore
GPS coordinates: 46.1437654, 10.8832069
ItinerarySee topo
DescentFrom the route exit, ascend the scree slope and Class 1 rock sections to reach a large circular ledge (50m below the summit). Follow this ledge counterclockwise to connect with the normal descent route. From here, follow the occasional cairns that first lead to Passo del Cacciatore (the saddle separating Cima Ceda Occidentale from Orientale), then continue rightward across scree slopes until they widen. Here, make a full left traverse into a steeper channel featuring rock steps (Class 2, with a rappel anchor). From this point, ascend diagonally leftward until you spot the Palmieri path, then follow the most obvious track to reach it.
GearA set of cams from black totem to 3 BD, double upblue and red. 1-2 micro may be found useful.
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