Petites Jorasses, Mont Blanc, Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso, Giacomo Mauri

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Mutante - Petites Jorasses

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The first ascent of 'Mutante' on the south face of the Petites Jorasses (Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso, Giacomo Mauri 19-20/03/2026)

archivio Matteo Della Bordella

Beauty

First ascent

Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso, Giacomo Mauri 19-20/03/2026

Planetmountain.com

Orientation

South

Length

520m

Difficulty

M8, 6c, AI4+

Departure

Val Ferret

Published on

23/05/2026

Route

Mutante on the south face of the Petites Jorasses is a really complete, varied route: rock pitches, dry tooling, ice. Nothing too extreme, just beautiful and varied, tucked away in one of the wildest corners of Mont Blanc.

Itinerary

See topo

Descent

Abseil down the route.

Notes

During the first ascent, the team found a belay with two bolts and some pegs at the top of the first pitch, sign of a previous attempt by unknown climbers. The descent was made by abseiling down the route, along which some new pegs and one additional bolt were placed.