The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

271
Routes in archive
Hard ice in the rock
Hard ice in the rock - Gran Paradiso
III/4
Superb route in a grandiose ambience. An extremely satisfying climb. In particularly good seasons the first two pitches form a spectacular hanging drip (70m III 5+). This has happened twice in the last 15 years.
Hruschka
Hruschka - Mur de Pisciadù
WI 5 M4 V-
This route was first climbed by the pharmacist from Brunico M. Hruschka, together with E. Lunz and R. von Zieglauer back on 28 September 1933. 500m high, it’s classic Dolomite chimney climbing breaches difficulties up to classic grade V. Reinterpreted...
Hysteria
Hysteria - Rio Vandul
M7, WI6+
Hysteria is beautiful icefall that rarely comes into conditon in Val Raccolana, first climbed in January 2017 by Italy's Romano Benet and Slovenia's Tine Cuder.
I 3 Orchi
I 3 Orchi - Val di Enghe
WI6, M9+
I 3 Orchi, the The 3 Orcs, is a beautiful mixed climb close to Sappada. The first two pitches follow L’orco va in vacanza. Pitch three crosses curtains, drips and some cauliflower-like formations. Reach the belay after a delicate traverse. According to...
Il Cigno Nero
Il Cigno Nero - Cima Falkner
5+, M7, 40°
Cigno Nero, the black swan, climbs a logical line up the ice of the north-east face of Cima Falkner in the heart of the Brenta Dolomites.
Il circo volante
Il circo volante - Monte Rosa
I/5+
This short icefall finishes beneath the overhangs to the right of Candela di Senden and rarely comes into condition.
Il Domatore
Il Domatore - Monte Rosa
I/WI6/R/X
Il Domatore formed in winter 2009/10 thanks to the significant amount of rain which did not fall in previous seasons. The difficulty refers to the first ascent and may change considerably with more or less ice.
Il Grande Salto
Il Grande Salto
TD+, 55/65°, 75°, M3+
On 7 December 2013 Cristiano Iurisci, Massimo Zulli and Antonio Di Martino made the first ascent of Il Grande Salto (TD+, 55/65°, 75°, M3+) in the remote, inhospitable, isolated and wild Valle Inferno in Italy's Majella National Park. This is...
Il regalo della Befana
Il regalo della Befana - Santo Stefano di Cadore
II/4
Interesting and fun drip at the start of Val Grande in a quiet setting. Although the route was climbed in two pitches, we suggest the second pitch is split into two.
Il sentiero dei Troll
Il sentiero dei Troll - Valnontey - Cogne
II/3
Sentiero dei Troll resembles an iced gully and is a classic icefall in the famous Valnontey valley.
Il Sole di Mezzogiorno
Il Sole di Mezzogiorno - Singlin
M5, 6a
Il Sole di Mezzogiorno climbs the obvious corner on the Singlin rock face.
Illogika
Illogika - Monte Nero di Presanella
M5 AI4+, III
The mixed climb Illogika takes a line to the left of Couloir dell’H on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella). An old peg was found on pitch 2, at present it is unclear whether it belongs to an...
Illuminati
Illuminati - Vallunga
M11+/WI 6+
On 24 January 2006 Albert Leichtfried made the first ascent of "Illuminati", a 5 pitch mixed outing located in Val Lunga, close to Selva Gardena, N. Italy. The 30 year old Austrian has put forward the impressive grade M11+/WI 6+.Leichtfried...
Illusion
Illusion - Val Budria
5/5+
Great 2-pitch icefall set in a beautiful gully in Val Budria climbed on 5 January by Cristian Candiotto and Ezio Lualdi. Why Illusion? "Because from down in the valley you simply can't believe that it's up there, when you first...
Illusione Ottica
Illusione Ottica
III/4
Nice icefall, unfortunately somewhat short. From afar it looks as if the vertical section could be much longer, and it gets its name because of this. A great climb for beginners, in a fantastic setting.
Inattesa sorpresa
Inattesa sorpresa - Rocce della Suer
II,4+
Great route, incredibly still unclimbed, hence the name "Unexpected surprise". This icefall is destined to become an instant classic. 60m ropes are needed (unless you want to split the second pitch and make an akward ice belay). It is worth...


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