A French FFME expedition to Madagascar led by Arnaud Petit and Jonathan Crison has established Soavadia, a 600m new rock climb up Tsaranoro Atsimo.
Siebe Vanhee reports about El Matédor a new climb first ascended with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll up the East Face of Aguja Desconocida in Patagonia.
In Yosemite, USA, Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse together with Alix Morris and Drew Smith makes the first free ascent of Eye of Sauron, a spectacular and difficult new 400 m trad climb in the Ribbon Falls area.
The video of Hansjörg Auer who on 8 August 2016 in the Dolomites climbed free solo the routes Vinatzer - Messner up Marmolada, Abramkante up Piz Ciavazes and Große Mauer up Sass dla Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel. The Austrian flew by paraglider from one mountain to the next and required 12 hours in total.
Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his repeat of Don Quixote up the Marmolada in the Dolomites together with paraclimber Frederik Leys. First climbed by Heinz Mariacher and Reinhard Schiestl in 1979, the route is considered a classic outing up the South Face.
The video MAD in Madagascar, documenting Sean Villanueva & Siebe Vanhee making the first ascent of Fire in the Bell up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
Torres del Paine, interview with Nicolas Favresse after the first free ascent of El Regalo de Mwono in Patagonia
Interview with Nicolas Favresse after the first free ascent, carried out with fellow-Belgians Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee, of the big wall rock climb El Regalo de Mwono (1200m, 8a) located on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.
Paine Towers, Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee free another big climb in Patagonia
After spending 19 days climbing the East Face of Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia, Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee completed the first free ascent of 'El Regalo de Mwono'. This 1200m big wall rock climb was established between 1991/1992 by Paul Pritchard, Simon Yates, Sean Smith and Noel Craine with difficulties up to 5b, VI, 5.10, A4.
The video of Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee climbing new routes up the granite big walls close to Bilibino in Siberia, Russia.
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award.
Andrea Polo, Gabriele Gorobey and Carlo Giuliberti retrace this September’s first free ascent of Never the Same up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar. The three were accompanied by Marco Sterni who, in 1998, had made the first ascent of this multi-pitch rock climb together with Rolando Larcher and Erik Svab.
In July and August this year, Chris Fitzgerald, Natasha Sebire and Gemma Woldendorp from Australia climbed several new routes on the previously unclimbed granite wall of the Finger Crack Cirque and on Weasel Tower close to the town of Bilibino, Siberia, Russia.
In August 2015 in Madagascar's Tsaranoro massif Sean Villanueva made the first ascent of Fire in the Belly (8a+, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo together with Siebe Vanhee. In September Villanueva teamed up with Rakotomalala Herynony Samuel to make the first ascent of the hitherto untouched Angavoa wall via the new route Mahagaga, (7c+, 250m). The report by Villanueva.
In July 2015 Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee climbed 8 new routes up the granite big walls close to Bilibino in Russia.
The video of the seocnd and third free ascent of the Sifuentes - Monti route at Frey, Bariloche, Patagonia, Argentina.
Italian climber Jacopo Larcher has repeated Helmutant 9a at the crag Saustall close to Meran, South Tyrol, Italy.
The report of the The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2014 that took place on the island of Kalymnos, Greece, from 9 - 12 October 2014.
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2014 begins today. The international climbing meeting takes place on the island of Kalymnos, Greece, from 9 – 12 October 2014. More than 2500 climbers are expected for this third edition that will celebrate sport climbing with a handful of true climbing legends: Patxi Arocena, Yuji Hirayama, Gerhard Hörhager, Ben Moon, Jean-Baptiste Tribout and Boone Speed.
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for the coming future.
In March 2012 Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stephane Hanssens and Jean-Louis Wertz established Maria Rosa (7b, 500m) and Apichavai (8a+, 500m) on Amuri Tepui in Venezuela. The trip report by Nico Favresse.