In just five days climbing at Arco, Jakob Schubert sent a series of difficult sport climbs including 'Beginning' 9a/9a + at Eremo di San Paolo and an onsight of the ‘8c '5 Uve’ at Narango.
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Polish rock climber Łukasz Dudek has made a rope solo ascent of Pan Aroma, the 550m 8c multi-pitch rock climb on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.
Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who has made the first onsight of Il Maratoneta, the first 8b+ in Croatia freed by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla in 1987 and at the time one of the hardest climbs in the world. Furthermore, he has made the first ascent of Genius Loci 9a which adds a variation start to Il Maratoneta.
Climbing with David Leduc, on Friday 17 July Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe made a singe-day repeat of Bellavista, the difficult multi-pitch on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites.
In June 2018 American rock climbers Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell set a new speed record on El Capitan in Yosemite, climbing The Nose in 1:58:07. Here’s the time-lapse of the entire ascent, condensed into just over two minutes.
29-year-old Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has repeated Weiße Rose, the historic 9a established by Alexander Huber at the Schleierwasserfall in 1994 and otherwise repeated only by Adam Ondra.
The video of Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl making a free ascent in 2016 of Zodiac, the historic big wall on the southeast face of El Capitan, Yosemite.
The video of the first free ascent of Eternal Flame, the legendary rock climb on Nameless Tower, in the Trango group, Karakorum. Established by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora, the first redpoint was carried out from 11 - 14 August 2009 by Thomas and Alexander Huber.
American rock climber Nellie Milfeld, belayed by her husband Cedar Wright, has made a rare female ascent of Freerider up El Capitan in Yosemite
Alpinists Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher have completed Koasabluad, a difficult multi-pitch rock climb up Maukspitze in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria, where in 2014/2015 they established Südwind. Unterwurzacher reports.
Swiss climber Cédric Lachat has repeated La Rambla, the benchmark 9a+ sport climb at Siurana in Spain
The teaser of the new movie The Nose Speed Record which documents the speed record up El Capitan in Yosemite set by Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell.
Climbing video: Dave MacLeod making his 2008 free solo ascent of Darwin Dixit at Margalef in Spain.
Swiss climber Nina Caprez has made a fast repeat of Voie Petit, up Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc. Established in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit, this 450m 8b multi-pitch was freed by Alexander Huber in 2005.
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of: Sandy Allan, Kazu Amano, Valeri Babanov, Jordi Corominas, Fred Degoulet, Ines Papert, Andrej Štremfelj.
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.
American rock climber Dave Graham has repeated the famous sport climb La Rambla. Gonzalo Larrocha also checks in with a repeat of the benchmark 9a+ at Siurana in Spain.
The film Free Solo that chronicles the extraordinary solo, ropeless ascent of Alex Honnold up El Capitan in Yosemite has won an Oscar for Best Documentary. Directed by Jimmy Chin and Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi, this is the first time a climbing film has won the most prestigious award in filmmaking.