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28.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes

Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas have climbed Mt. Yerupajá, turning back below the summit cornice. This is the last of their tour of the 16 highest mountains in the South American Andes.

27.09.2018 by Luca Vallata in Alpinism

Chareze Ri North in India's Rangtik valley climbed by Italians

At the end of August 2018 Davide Limongi, Federico Martinelli, Enrico Mosetti, Federico Secchi and Luca Vallata climbed the East Ridge of Chareze Ri North in the Rangtik valley in the Zanskar area of India. Climbed alpine style with one bivouac, Jullay Temù (1000m, 70° ice, V + rock) reaches the north summit at5950m. Due to the onset of darkness and subsequent bad weather the main summit was not reached. Luca Vallata reports

26.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif

Last night significant rockfall took place on the Trident du Tacul, close to the Grand Capucin (Mont Blanc massif).

24.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co

Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.

20.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours

Interview with Italy’s François Cazzanelli who on 12 September 2018 teamed up with Switzerland’s Andreas Steindl to climb all four ridges of the Matterhorn in just 16 hours and 4 minutes.

20.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Books-press

La Sportiva 90th anniversary book wins best corporate monographs 2018

The book 'La Sportiva 90th, a history of alpinism, passion, innovation' has won the 2018 OMI award for the best corporate monograph went to La Sportiva for its innovative approach and storytelling capacity.

18.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Huascarán Norte in Peru climbed by Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini

The Italian alpine guides Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas Franchini have climbed Huascarán Norte, the highest mountain in Peru, as part of their Los Picos 6500 project which aims to climb the 16 highest peaks of the South American Andes.

18.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Devil's Paw in Alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden climb West Face

Mountain climbing in Alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden have made the first ascent of Shaa Téix’i (1300m, 5.11a) up the West Face of the Devils Paw, Juneau Ice Cap.

14.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Liv Sansoz completes 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps

French climber and alpinist Liv Sansoz has completed all 82 alpine four-thousanders.

12.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mont Blanc: fire ravages Grands Montets cable car

The Grands Montets cable car middle station caught fire yesterday afternoon. While no one was injured, the fire has caused significant damages.

11.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

New Zealand: another mixed climb up Aoraki / Mount Cook

Mountaineers Caleb Jennings and Kim Ladiges have made the first ascent of Pilgrim, a new mixed climb up the south face of Aoraki / Mt Cook (3,764 m) in New Zealand.

07.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tom Belz summits Kilimanjaro on route towards personal growth

On 9 August 2018 the disabled mountaineer Tom Belz reached the summit of Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa, without a leg and on crutches. An adventure to understand his personal limits but above all to encourage others to push beyone their personal boundaries.

06.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Latok I. The Aleš Česen interview

Interview with Slovenian alpinist Aleš Česen after the ascent, carried out with Luka Stražar and Tom Livingstone, of Latok I via the north and south face. The three were only the second team to reach the summit of the 7,145m high mountain in Pakistan’s Karakorum after the 1979 first ascent.

05.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Andreas Steindl sprints up and down Matterhorn in 4 hours

On Monday 27 August 2018 the 29-year-old Swiss mountain guide Andreas Steindl ascended and descended the Matterhorn via the Hornli ridge at breakneck speed, requiring 3 hours, 59 minutes and 52 seconds for the round-trip from Zermatt.

02.09.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Pilots warn drones endanger rescue helicopter safety

Marco Kostner, pilot of the Aiut Alpin Dolomites, warns of the dangers rescue helicopters face due to reckless use of drones in the mountains.

31.08.2018 by Denis Trento in Alpinism

Monte Rosa Express clocked up by Denis Trento and Robert Antonioli

Denis Trento talks about his fast raid in the Monte Rosa massif together with Robert Antonioli across the peaks Lyskamm, Colle del Lys, Punta Dufour and Punta Zumstein.

29.08.2018 by Jorg Verhoeven in Alpinism

Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven

Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven talks about his ascent of the Peutérey Integral ridge on Mont Blanc, carried out with Martin Schidlowski from 13 - 15 July 2018.

28.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report

New details have emerged in English about the ill-fated Russian expedition to Latok I that resulted in the death of Sergey Glazunov and the dramatic rescue of his climbing partner Alexander Gukov. In this report Gukov believes they reached the end of the North Ridge.

28.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Aiguille du Midi cable car closed for maintenance once again

After the closure in June, the second section of the Aiguille du Midi cable car has been closed for an indefinite period due to maintenance works.

27.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cosmiques Arête rockfall on Mont Blanc

Rockfall took place on 22 August 2018 on the famous Arête des Cosmiques in the Mont Blanc massif. La Chamoniarde is currently strongly advising against climbing the popular Cosmiques Arête ridgeline.

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