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21.07.2020 by Federica Mingolla in Alpinism

Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard

Italian mountaineer Federica Mingolla reports about the first integral ascent, with Leonardo Gheza, of Incroyable, the rock climb established just a few days ago on the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. Mingolla repeated the route a few hours after having climbed the historic Ratti - Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey with Lorenzo Pernigotti.

20.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Sébastien Berthe blasts up Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo

Climbing with David Leduc, on Friday 17 July Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe made a singe-day repeat of Bellavista, the difficult multi-pitch on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites.

19.07.2020 by Cesar Grosso in Climbing

Cesar Grosso sends Pure Dreaming 9a at Arco

Brazilian climber Cesar Grosso reports about his first 9a, Pure Dreaming at Massone close to Arco. The 36-year-old has been living in Italy since 2013 and after competing for 23 years is now dedicating himself exclusively to climbing outdoors.

19.07.2020 by Jérôme Sullivan in Alpinism

Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède

French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.

17.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Sami Koponen repeats Kesäturkki, 8c DWS at Punkaharju in Finland

Finnish rock climber Sami Koponen has made the second ascent of Kesäturkki, an 8c deep water solo at Punkaharju established in 2016 by Nalle Hukkataival.

Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti

Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was carried out on 8 July 2020 by the trio with fellow mountain guide Isaie Maquignaz on 08/07/2020.

15.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest

Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative first ascent climbing contest.

13.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stefano Ghisolfi takes The Bow, new 9a+ at Padaro, Arco

27-year-old climber Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of The Bow, a new 9a+ sport climb at the crag Padaro in Arco, Italy.

10.07.2020 by Marco Sappa in Alpinism

Mont Blanc's Digital Crack repeated by Marco Sappa

Marco Sappa has repeated the famous Digital Crack, first ascended in 1999 by Thierry Renault and Alain Ghersen on the Grand Gendarme of the Arête des Cosmiques in the Mont Blanc massif. The Italian mountain guide reports.

09.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alexander Megos frees Upgrade U, hardest boulder problem in Frankenjura

The video of German climber Alex Megos making the first ascent of Upgrade U, an 8C boulder problem in the Frankenjura, Germany.

09.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

First ascent climbing contest at Barliard in Ollomont valley, Valle d'Aosta

A new contest has been launched at the crag Barliard in the Ollomont valley in Valle d’Aosta, Italy

 where two sport climbs have been bolted and await a first ascent. The first male and female climbers to free the routes will receive climbing equipment to the equivalent of € 1,000.

08.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
 of significant ascents

The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22 September 2020.

07.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stefano Carnati king of Jungle Boogie 9a+ at Céüse

At Céüse in France, 22-year-old Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Jungle Boogie, a 9a+ sport climb established in 2012 by Adam Ondra.

06.07.2020 by Ragni di Lecco in Alpinism

Final farewell to Matteo Bernasconi on Pizzo Badile by Ragni di Lecco

On Sunday 5 July 2020 the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club climbed Pizzo Badile and bid farewell to Matteo Bernasconi who was tragically killed in a ski mountaineering accident on 12/05/2020.

05.07.2020 by Nicholas Hobley in Climbing

Remembering Tito Traversa

Seven years ago Tito Traversa perished in a climbing accident. The void left behind by this great climber, aged a mere twelve, continues to be enormous.

04.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alexander Megos completes first 'brushpoint' of Frankenjura 8c

The video of German climber Alex Megos climbing Father and Son (8c) in Frankenjura in Germany, brushing each hold immediately after using it...

04.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

The People of Climbing

The film The People of Climbing. Directed by Josh Greenwood, this documentary provides a candid look at race and equity in the outdoor industry from the perspective of people of color attending the 2018 Color The Crag Festival in Alabama, USA.

03.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Cédric Lachat repeats Wogü in Rätikon, Switzerland

Swiss climber Cédric Lachat has repeated Wogü, the 8c alpine sports climb established by Beat Kammerlander and freed in 2008 by Adam Ondra in Rätikon, Switzerland.

03.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti

Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have established Incroyable, a new rock climb up the famous Red Pillar of Brouillard on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.

Climbing and climate change

How does our love for the mountains affect the climate? And what can we do to change this process? Germany's Lena Marie Müller, who is currently doing a PhD on the effects of climate change at the University of Innsbruck and recently repeated the E9 Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs, shares her thoughts.




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