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Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia for the first ascent...
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
07/10/2022 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo is to receive the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 17 to 20 November at Briançon in France. In the past the prestigious mountaineering prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot,...
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
29/09/2022 - Alpinism
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West Face of Punta Civetta was established between 2007 and 2008...
Petzl Legend Tour Italy: Arco and the Sarca Valley, the cradle of Italian sport climbing
26/09/2022 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italy: Arco and the Sarca Valley, the cradle of Italian sport climbing
The fourth episode of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy is now online and explores the cradle of Italian sport climbing, Arco and the Sarca Valley
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
21/09/2022 - Interviews
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
British mountaineer Tim Howell has completed his ambitious North Base Project which aimed to climb and fly the six great North Faces of the Alps. Depending on the mountain, the 33-year-old Brit either made a wingsuit flight or BASE jump. The Eiger, Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Petit Dru,...
New free climb on Little Asan in Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan)
20/09/2022 - Alpinism
New free climb on Little Asan in Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan)
Patrick Tirler from the South Tyrol, Italy, reports about the first ascent of 'Ak-Kalpak' on Little Asan in the Kara-Su Valley in the Karavshin area of Kyrgyzstan's Pamir-Alai, carried out this summer with Moritz Sigmund.
Mountain Warriors added to Alam Kooh in Iran by Nasim Eshqi, Sina Heidari
16/09/2022 - Alpinism
Mountain Warriors added to Alam Kooh in Iran by Nasim Eshqi, Sina Heidari
Alpinists Nasim Eshqi and Sina Heidari have made the first ascent of Mountain Warriors on the hitherto unclimbed Sun Tower on Alam Kooh (Mount Alam-kuh), at 4850m the second highest mountain in Iran.
Anna Taylor completes all 100 Mountain Rock climbs in UK
15/09/2022 - Climbing
Anna Taylor completes all 100 Mountain Rock climbs in UK
British rock climber Anna Taylor has completed all 100 climbs listed in the UK reference guidebook Mountain Rock. The 24-year-old spent 53 days climbing the routes and, notably, linking them by human power, ie cycling, running, hiking.
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
06/09/2022 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
On the 18th of July German climber Alexander Huber made the first free ascent of Ramayana, a 6-pitch 8b+ on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
Silvan Schüpbach and his 7x24 challenge in Wenden
29/08/2022 - Interviews
Silvan Schüpbach and his 7x24 challenge in Wenden
Interview with Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach who on 31/07/2022, with Carlos Molina from Argentina, climbed 7 routes in 24 hours in Wendenstöcke, Switzerland.
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.
Katherine Choong, Jim Zimmermann repeat Hattori Hanzo, 8b+ multipitch on Titlis North Face
28/07/2022 - Alpinism
Katherine Choong, Jim Zimmermann repeat Hattori Hanzo, 8b+ multipitch on Titlis North Face
Swiss climbers Katherine Choong and Jim Zimmermann have both repeated Hattori Hanzo, the seven pitch 8b+ on the North Face of Titlis above Engelberg in Switzerland, first ascended by Matthias Trottmann.
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
19/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
Catalan alpinists Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve have explored new terrain on the on Lofoten Islands in Norway, adding the variation Rett Opp to the South Face of Helvetestinden, and making what is likely to be the first ascent of the North Face of Brasrastindan via their Nordside. Cucurell reports.
Torre Egger Traverse in Patagonia by Priti Wright, Jeff Wright
07/06/2022 - Alpinism
Torre Egger Traverse in Patagonia by Priti Wright, Jeff Wright
In January 2022 Priti and Jeff Wright traversed three of the four peaks in the Patagonian Cerro Torre range: Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron and Torre Egger, linking three different routes: Festerville, Spigolo dei Bimbi and Espejo del Viento. The video and Priti's smash and grab trip report, that follows their...
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
06/06/2022 - Alpinism
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
From 23 - 27 May 2022 David Allfrey, Whit Magro and Graham Zimmerman established a new alpine, big wall route on the Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire in the Alaska Range. They named the 950m climb 'The Pace of Comfort' and graded it VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.

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