984 News found
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear only.
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
06/09/2023 - Alpinism
Dmitry Golovchenko missing on Gasherbrum IV, Sergey Nilov evacuated by helicopter Russian mountaineer Dmitry Golovchenko is currently reported missing on Gasherbrum IV in Pakistan's Karakorum range. His climbing partner Sergey Nilov descended to Base Camp on his own accord where he was airlifted by helicopter. The pair had been attempting the unclimbed SE Ridge; a search and rescue mission is currently...
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of bolts.
30/08/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner British rock climber James Pearson has repeated The Parthian Shot E10 6c at Burbage South, UK, without the side-runner in the crack on the right. The Brit, no newcomer to hard and dangerous trad ascents, stated after his repeat 'This one means a lot.'
28/08/2023 - Alpinism
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl The other day the 69-year-old mountain guide from Sexten, South Tyrol, Italy Heini Gütl reached the summit of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Dolomites for the 600th time
19/08/2023 - Alpinism
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.
18/08/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales At Rhoscolyn on the island of Anglesey in North Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated the E9 trad climb 'Olwen' while her husband James Pearson has repeated the E10 'Prisoners of the sun'.
29/06/2023 - Alpinism
Fay Manners, Freja Shannon and the mixed climb 'How not to' on Senja Island in Norway The video of the first ascent of 'How not to' (M5, 250m), established on the north face of Grytetippen on Senja Island in Norway by Fay Manners and Freja Shannon in March 2023.
23/06/2023 - Climbing
Yeah Woman! Nina Caprez repeats Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) in Gastlosen, Switzerland On Sunday 18 June Swiss rock climber Nina Caprez has repeated Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) on Grand Pfad in the Gastlosen mountain range in Switzerland.
19/06/2023 - Alpinism
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo Italian mountaineers Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo have established what is likely to be a new climb on Cemetery Spire in the Cathedral Spires group of the Kichatna mountains in Alaska. Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+) was climbed with one bivy from 4 to 6 June 2023.
15/06/2023 - Interviews
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli Interview with Simon Gietl after the first ascent of Goldfish on Meru South in India, carried out alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2023 with Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli. Interview by Bulgarian journalist Tanya Ivanova.
18/04/2023 - Alpinism
Triglav Čop Pillar climbed solo by Gašper Pintar The report by Slovenian alpinist Gašper Pintar who on 28 and 29 March 2023 completed a remarkable solo climb of the famous Čop Pillar on the north face of Triglav in Slovenia. Although technically no longer in the calendar winter, the ascent was carried out in conditions akin to the...
05/04/2023 - Alpinism
Winter Trilogy 2022: watch Léo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines climb the Grandes Jorasses, Eiger, Matterhorn The video of French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines climbing the famous three north faces of the Alps, the Grandes Jorasses, the Eiger and the Matterhorn in winter 2022.
30/03/2023 - Alpinism
Fay Manners, Freja Shannon discover 'How not to' on Senja in Norway Alpinists Fay Manners and Freja Shannon have made the first ascent of 'How not to' (M5, 250m) on the north face of Grytetippen on the island of Senja in Norway.
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