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Big new climb on Mirror Wall in Greenland by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva
25/09/2024 - Climbing
Big new climb on Mirror Wall in Greenland by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva
This summer Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll established a new climb up the centre of the Mirror Wall in Greenland. The 1000m big wall is graded 8b/R/A2+ and has been called 'Ryu-shin', in memory of their friend and climbing partner Keita Kurakami.
The hidden melting of the Gorner glacier (Monte Rosa)
19/09/2024 - Environment
The hidden melting of the Gorner glacier (Monte Rosa)
For three decades, the La Venta Geographical Exploration Association has been exploring glaciers and glacier cave. After monitoring the Gorner glacier in 2020 and 2022, Alessio Romeo returned this year to check the health of the wonderful caves that formed within the ice, immediately above the rocky valley floor.
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl repeat Seventh Direction (8c, 220m) in Rätikon
13/09/2024 - Climbing
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl repeat Seventh Direction (8c, 220m) in Rätikon
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl have all repeated 'Seventh Direction' in the Rätikon, Austria. The 220m 8c multipitch on Drusenfluh was first ascended in 2022 by Alex Luger.
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
09/09/2024 - Alpinism
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The preliminary details of the climbing expedition to Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter, which resulted in the first ascent of 'Odissea Borealis' (1200m, 35 pitches, 7b) on the hitherto unclimbed NW Face of Drøneren
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of 'The Gift' in Rätikon
04/09/2024 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of 'The Gift' in Rätikon
Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl have made the first repeats of 'The Gift' (8c, 350m) on the Drusenfluh the Rätikon massif in Austria.
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.
Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari climb to new heights for human rights awareness
29/08/2024 - Alpinism
Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari climb to new heights for human rights awareness
Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi and her parter Sina Heidari have established 'Rise up for human rights' on Le Minaret in the Mont Blanc massif with Michel Piola and 'Woman, Life, Freedom' on Catinaccio in the Dolomites with Gianni Trepin and Arianna Capra. The climbs form part of their 'When Mountains...
Cric e Croc, new rock climb on Rognon Vaudano below Dent du Géant (Mont Blanc massif)
16/08/2024 - Alpinism
Cric e Croc, new rock climb on Rognon Vaudano below Dent du Géant (Mont Blanc massif)
Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Gianluca Marra, together with Giovanna Mongilardi, have made the first ascent of 'Cric e Croc'. The 6-pitch rock climb is graded 6b+ max and is located on Rognon Vaudano, the cliff located below Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif dedicated to Davide...
Siebe Vanhee teams up Tommy Caldwell to send Eiger Odyssee in a day
05/08/2024 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee teams up Tommy Caldwell to send Eiger Odyssee in a day
On Tuesday 30 July Siebe Vanhee, supported Tommy Caldwell, succeeded in making a one-day ascent of 'Odyssee' on the Eiger North Face. The 33-pitch outing was completed in 2015 by Roger Schaeli, Simon Gietl and Robert Jasper with difficulties up to 8a+.
Solenne Piret climbs Grand Capucin via Swiss route + O Sole Mio exit
31/07/2024 - Alpinism
Solenne Piret climbs Grand Capucin via Swiss route + O Sole Mio exit
On 23 July 2024 French paraclimber Solenne Piret teamed up with Chris Cazin to climb the Swiss route + O Sole Mio exit on Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc massif.
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
25/07/2024 - Alpinism
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 1-6 July 2024, Czech mountaineers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Hák reports about the climb up the peak famed for having been the highest unclimbed mountain in the world.
Tuva Stavø makes first female ascent of Arctandria on Blåmann in Norway
24/07/2024 - Climbing
Tuva Stavø makes first female ascent of Arctandria on Blåmann in Norway
On 14 July 2024 Norwegian climber Tuva Stavø made the first female ascent of 'Arctandria' on Store Blåmann in Norway.
Chamonix, nothing will ever be the same again
16/07/2024 - Competitions
Chamonix, nothing will ever be the same again
The Lead and Speed​World Cup took place in Chamonix, France, last weekend and was won respectively by Ai Mori and Colin Duffy, and by Zhang Shaoqin and Sam Watson. Fabio Palma reports
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese
15/07/2024 - Climbing
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese
French climber Laura Pineau reports about some of her most recent ascents that include a free repeat of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite and a fast repeat of 'Turkey Crack' at Cadarese in Italy.
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
11/07/2024 - Alpinism
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
David Göttler has abandoned his ambitious expedition on Nanga Parbat for this year, due to unfavourable conditions during his final summit attempt. The German alpinist had hoped to climb the Rupal Face alpine style, initially with Mike Arnold, then with Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein.
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
03/07/2024 - Alpinism
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
On 30 April 2024 Jakob Steinkasserer and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Hexentango' (WI 4+, M 4+, 55°, 500m) on the west face of Hochflachkofel in the Rieserferner Group in South Tyrol, Italy. Steinkasserer reports.

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