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Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret) to Pointe Walker (4,208m) in 2:17. After a short rest...
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
13/07/2023 - Alpinism
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
Joda Dolmans reports about the first ascent of 'South West Face' on Stetind in Norway with Andreas Widlund. The 790m climb was established in a 33-hour push, breaches difficulties up to N7/A0, and shares a short section of 'Guldfisken' in the middle of the face.
Big new climb on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites) by Nicolò Geremia, Mirco Grasso
10/07/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites) by Nicolò Geremia, Mirco Grasso
At Punta Frassenè on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites, Italy) Nicolò Geremia and Mirco Grasso have made the first ascent of Barbari nel TAO (IX+/X-, 500m). Both describe this multi-pitch as 'one of the most beautiful and fun routes' they know.
Shauna Coxsey climbs Hydro, second 8B in two months
07/07/2023 - Climbing
Shauna Coxsey climbs Hydro, second 8B in two months
30-year-old British climber Shauna Coxsey has climbed Hydro in Ogmore, South Wales. This is her second 8B boulder problem in as many months, after having repeated Flip Flopera in May.
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka
05/07/2023 - Alpinism
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka
Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about the first ascent of 'Magia nera', established on the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites with Martin Tučka.
Gran Sasso d'Italia, Via Ferrata Brizio changes name and becomes Ferrata dei Ginepri
04/07/2023 - Trekking
Gran Sasso d'Italia, Via Ferrata Brizio changes name and becomes Ferrata dei Ginepri
The Teramo section of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) has announced it has changed the name of Via Ferrata Brizio to Via Ferrata dei Ginepri. The decision derives from historical events linked to the application of the racial laws during Italy's fascist period.
Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert victorious in Villars once again
03/07/2023 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert victorious in Villars once again
The second stage of the 2023 Lead World Cup was won on Saturday night at Villars in Switzerland by Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert. This is the Slovenian’s 25th Lead World Cup gold medal, the Austrian's 20th.
Jana Švecová nails Nova, new 8B+ boulder problem in Czech Republic
30/06/2023 - Climbing
Jana Švecová nails Nova, new 8B+ boulder problem in Czech Republic
Jana Švecová from the Czech Republic has made the first ascent of Nova, an 8B+ boulder problem at Lidomorna at Moravsky Kras. This powerful line adds a different start to Adam Ondra's 8C+ Terranova and hails as one of the most difficult boulder problems established by a woman to date.
Fay Manners, Freja Shannon and the mixed climb 'How not to' on Senja Island in Norway
29/06/2023 - Alpinism
Fay Manners, Freja Shannon and the mixed climb 'How not to' on Senja Island in Norway
The video of the first ascent of 'How not to' (M5, 250m), established on the north face of Grytetippen on Senja Island in Norway by Fay Manners and Freja Shannon in March 2023.
Dani Arnold solos Switzerland's Salbit Trilogy in under 10 hours
29/06/2023 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold solos Switzerland's Salbit Trilogy in under 10 hours
On 11 June 2023 Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold soloed the three ridges on the legendary Salbitschijen in 9 hours, 36 minutes and 55 seconds.
Watch the first repeat of Cœur de Géant on Dent du Géant
28/06/2023 - Alpinism
Watch the first repeat of Cœur de Géant on Dent du Géant
The video of the first repeat of 'Cœur de Géant' on Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif carried out by French alpinists Mathis Garayt, Arthur Poindefert and Kilian Moni on 17/06/2023
Didier Berthod makes first ascent of The Crack of Destiny at Squamish in Canada
27/06/2023 - Climbing
Didier Berthod makes first ascent of The Crack of Destiny at Squamish in Canada
Swiss climber Didier Berthod has made the first ascent of The Crack of Destiny on The Chief at Squamish in Canada. Graded 5.14, this checks in as one of the hardest crack climbs in North America.
Solveig Korherr climbs Jungfraumarathon (9a) at Gimmelwald in Switzerland
26/06/2023 - Climbing
Solveig Korherr climbs Jungfraumarathon (9a) at Gimmelwald in Switzerland
German climber Solveig Korherr has repeated Jungfraumarathon, a 9a sports climb at Gimmelwald in Switzerland. This is Korherr's second at the grade, having climbed Cabane au Canada at Rawyl in 2021.
Yeah Woman! Nina Caprez repeats Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) in Gastlosen, Switzerland
23/06/2023 - Climbing
Yeah Woman! Nina Caprez repeats Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) in Gastlosen, Switzerland
On Sunday 18 June Swiss rock climber Nina Caprez has repeated Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) on Grand Pfad in the Gastlosen mountain range in Switzerland.
Watch Yannick Flohé sending Ephyra 8C+ at Chironico
22/06/2023 - Climbing
Watch Yannick Flohé sending Ephyra 8C+ at Chironico
The video of German climber Yannick Flohé repeating Ephyra 8C+ at Chironico in January 2023.
Cœur de Géant repeated on Dent du Géant by Mathis Garayt, Arthur Poindefert, Kilian Moni
22/06/2023 - Alpinism
Cœur de Géant repeated on Dent du Géant by Mathis Garayt, Arthur Poindefert, Kilian Moni
On 17/06/2023 the young French mountaineers Mathis Garayt (19), Arthur Poindefert (19), Kilian Moni (20) made the first repeat of Cœur de Géant on the NW Face of Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif. The 580m mixed climb is graded 580m, ED, M6+/7, WI 4+, 5c (5.10a) and...

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