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Greenland climbing – new routes by Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski
31/08/2009 - Climbing
Greenland climbing – new routes by Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski
In August Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski from Poland climbed a virgin peak and established two big new routes in remote area of Torsukattak fjord in southern Greenland.
Pale di San Martino routes re-equipped
03/08/2009 - Alpinism
Pale di San Martino routes re-equipped
At the start of July the belays of three classic Dolomites climbs were re-equipped during a mountain rescue training session. The routes in question are Frisch Corradini and Franceschini-Esposito on Pala del Rifugio and Simon-Wiessner-Kess on nearby Cima del Coro in the Pale di San Martino mountain group.
Greenland climbing expedition success for Ragni di Lecco
29/07/2009 - Alpinism
Greenland climbing expedition success for Ragni di Lecco
Simone Pedeferri, Matteo Della Bordella, Lorenzo "Pala" Lanfranchi and Richard Felderer have just returned from a successful expedition to the relatively unexplored eastern Greenland where there carried out 5 first ascents. Simone Pedeferri talks about the expedition.
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
02/07/2009 - Climbing
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
On 15 June Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia carried out the first free ascent of Umbras (300m 8a max, 7b+ obl.). They had made the first ascent of this rout up the N Face of Punta Cusidore (Sardinia) in 2008.
Picos de Europa, Naranjo de Bulnes, rock climbing in Spain's secretive mountain paradise
15/06/2009 - Climbing
Picos de Europa, Naranjo de Bulnes, rock climbing in Spain's secretive mountain paradise
The mysterious place that everyone seems to have heard about, but where not many have dared venture! Under-rated and often overlooked, the Picos de Europa is Northern Spain's hidden secret! Consisting of a huge area of wild limestone peaks, it offers rock climbers and mountaineers a wealth of routes in...
Ala Daglar new climbs in Turkey
15/05/2009 - Alpinism
Ala Daglar new climbs in Turkey
In June 2008 Diego Cociancich, Stefano Zaleri and Marco Zebochin made the first ascents of two new routes in Turkey's Ala Daglar mountain range, Obelix 6b, 340m and L’armata Brancaleone 7a, 360m.
Fitz Roy Tehuelche route rare repeat by Slovenians Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic
14/05/2009 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Tehuelche route rare repeat by Slovenians Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic
In January the Slovenian climbers Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic made a rare ascent of Cia del Tehuelche up the North Face of Fitz Roy, Patagonia.
Dolomites double for the Riegler brothers
29/04/2009 - Environment
Dolomites double for the Riegler brothers
At Easter Florian and Martin Riegler carried out two noteworthy ascents in the Dolomites. On 7 April the South Tyrolean brothers made the first on-sight of "Karies" on Sassolungo while on 11 April they repeated Zauberlehrling on Cima Scotoni, all free and in a single day
Cittadini della Galassia 1st ski descent for Lafranconi, Pina and Marazzi
Cittadini della Galassia 1st ski descent for Lafranconi, Pina and Marazzi
On 23 March Fabrizio Pina, Alessandro Lafranconi and Alberto Marazzi skied the route "Cittadini della galassia" (V/4) on the NW Face of Monte Legnone. In doing so they made the first ski descent of this long gully high above Collico, Italy.
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
31/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).
Stalattica, Livigno icefall first ascent by Salini and Panizza
30/03/2009 - Alpinism
Stalattica, Livigno icefall first ascent by Salini and Panizza
Fabio Salini and Emanuel Panizza have carried out the first ascent of Stalattica (60m, IV,5,X), a beautiful ice fall in the Livingo area, Italy.
Morteratsch East, Bernina first ascent by Maspes, Panizza and Turk
28/03/2009 - Alpinism
Morteratsch East, Bernina first ascent by Maspes, Panizza and Turk
On 21 March Luca Maspes, Emanuel Panizza and Christian Turk carried out the first ascent of the ESE Face of Morteratsch (3751m) in the Bernina mountain range.
Flashback Melloblocco 2008, a day climbing Luna Nascente
27/03/2009 - Climbing
Flashback Melloblocco 2008, a day climbing Luna Nascente
This too is what rock climbing and the Melloblocco is all about: a normal story about a happy day climbing with Patxi Usobiaga and Curt Marazzi.
Conturines south gully: first ski descent of Tremolada and Oberbacher
Conturines south gully: first ski descent of Tremolada and Oberbacher
On 19 March Andrea Oberbacher and Francesco Tremolada carried out the first ski descent of the long and much-eyed Conturines south gully. On 15 March Tremolada had also carried the probable first repeat of the south gully on Piz Ciavazes, first skied by Tone Valeruz.
Scotland winter climbing update
13/03/2009 - Alpinism
Scotland winter climbing update
Andy Turner and Tony Stone have carried out the first winter ascent of Sassenach on Ben Nevis and Ueli Steck has repeated The Secret. Ian Parnell and Andy Turner then carry out the first ascent of Bruised Violet (VIII,7,8,8,8,7) on Beinn Eighe.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.

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