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Andrea Lanfri and his Everest objective
30/03/2022 - Interviews
Andrea Lanfri and his Everest objective
Interview with Andrea Lanfri, the Paralympic athlete and mountaineer from Lucca recently arrived in Nepal with mountain guide Luca Montanari to attempt to climb Everest
Charles Dubouloz, Les Grandes Jorasses and his Rolling Stones winter solo
21/02/2022 - Interviews
Charles Dubouloz, Les Grandes Jorasses and his Rolling Stones winter solo
Interview with French mountaineer Charles Dubouloz who from 13 to 18 January 2022 made the first winter solo of Rolling Stones on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Adieu Korra Pesce
02/02/2022 - Alpinism
Adieu Korra Pesce
Corrado 'Korra' Pesce, the Italian mountain guide known as one of the strongest climbers of his generation, lost his life on Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
Gabriele Moroni establishes Trofeo dell'Adriatico, a new 9a+ at Arco, Italy
19/01/2022 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni establishes Trofeo dell'Adriatico, a new 9a+ at Arco, Italy
Last Monday 34-year-old Gabriele Moroni made the first ascent of Trofeo dell'Adriatico, a new 9a at Bus de La Stria (Hotel Olivo) close to Arco, Garda Trentino, Italy
Manaslu Base Camp partially destroyed by avalanche
11/01/2022 - Alpinism
Manaslu Base Camp partially destroyed by avalanche
The winter expedition to Manaslu led by Simone Moro and Alex Txikon has suffered a minor setback; an avalanche hit and partially destroyed Base Camp. All the members of the expedition are doing well, having previously descended to Samagaon after...
Cascata Major on Mont Blanc East Face climbed by Francesco Civra Dano, Giuseppe Vidoni
24/11/2021 - Alpinism
Cascata Major on Mont Blanc East Face climbed by Francesco Civra Dano, Giuseppe Vidoni
On the east face of Mont Blanc Giuseppe Vidoni and Francesco Civra Dano have climbed an icefall that had never been ascended before. Described as 'a real icefall at 4000m, about 200 meters high in the middle of the Brenva...
Yasushi Yamanoi to receive Lifetime Achievement Award Piolet d'Or Carrière 2021
23/11/2021 - Alpinism
Yasushi Yamanoi to receive Lifetime Achievement Award Piolet d'Or Carrière 2021
Japanese mountaineer Yasushi Yamanoi is to receive the13th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated in Briançon, France, from 26 to 29 November.
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
19/10/2021 - Alpinism
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Benjamin Védrines have climbed a remarkable new route up the virgin North Face of Chamlang (7319m) in Nepal. 'À l'ombre du mensonge' was ascended alpine style over 4 days and breaches difficulties up WI 5+,...
Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev
01/10/2021 - Alpinism
Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev
Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev have made an alpine-style ascent of the South Face of Voennikh Topografov, aka Military Topographers, at 6873 m the third highest mountain in the Tian-Shan range. Golovchenko reports.
Andrea Lanfri completes bike & climb from Genoa to Monte Rosa’s Margherita hut
30/09/2021 - Alpinism
Andrea Lanfri completes bike & climb from Genoa to Monte Rosa’s Margherita hut
As part of his 'From 0 to 0' project, Andrea Lanfri set off from Genoa by bike and climbed to the Capanna Margherita (4554m) on Monte Rosa, before returning to Genoa by bike. The Paralympic athlete and mountaineer from Lucca...
Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi climbed in Hindu Kush by Georgian expedition
27/09/2021 - Alpinism
Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi climbed in Hindu Kush by Georgian expedition
A small Georgian expedition comprised of Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze has made two interesting ascents in the Rosh Gol valley in Pakistan: the first ascent of the Northwest summit of Saraghrar 7,303m and the third ascent of...
Rick Allen perishes on K2
27/07/2021 - Alpinism
Rick Allen perishes on K2
68-year-old Scottish mountaineer Rick Allen has lost his life while attempting to establish a new route on K2. In 2012, together with Sandy Allan, he completed the historic first traverse of the interminable Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat.
Lorenzo Scandroglio
16/07/2021 - Alpinism
Lorenzo Scandroglio
The Italian mountaineering community is in mourning: Lorenzo Scandroglio, a well-known mountain journalist, writer and translator, mountain hut warden, mountaineer and member of the Italian mountain rescue team, passed away at the age of 52.
Mount Everest Centenary Exhibition launched by Alpine Club in London
24/06/2021 - Events
Mount Everest Centenary Exhibition launched by Alpine Club in London
The Alpine Club has opened its landmark exhibition 'Everest: By Those Who Were There' to the public. The exhibition commemorates 100 years since the first expedition to Mount Everest in 1921, and explores, in intimate detail, the three Alpine Club...
Heavenly Trap on Baruntse, Márek Holeček reports about new route with Radoslav Groh
08/06/2021 - Alpinism
Heavenly Trap on Baruntse, Márek Holeček reports about new route with Radoslav Groh
Czech alpinist Márek Holeček reports about Heavenly Trap, the new route climbed alpine style over 10 days up the West Face of Baruntse (7129m) in Nepal together with Radoslav Groh.
Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh survive Baruntse NW Face ordeal
31/05/2021 - Alpinism
Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh survive Baruntse NW Face ordeal
Czech climbers Márek Holeček and Radoslav Groh are safe and sound after having established a new climb on the NW Face of Baruntse (7129m) in Nepal. After climbing the route alpine style the two Czech mountaineers endured an epic, 80-hour...