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Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of bolts.
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner
30/08/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner
British rock climber James Pearson has repeated The Parthian Shot E10 6c at Burbage South, UK, without the side-runner in the crack on the right. The Brit, no newcomer to hard and dangerous trad ascents, stated after his repeat 'This one means a lot.'
Laura Rogora onsights 8c at Cicera in Spain
29/08/2023 - Climbing
Laura Rogora onsights 8c at Cicera in Spain
Italian climber Laura Rogora has onsighted her first 8c, 'Ajo crude' at Cicera in Spain. She is only the third woman to succeed in this feat, after Janja Garnbret (2021) and Chaehyun Seo (2022).
Ainhize Belar Barrutia repeats world's first 8c, Wolfgang Güllich's Wallstreet in Frankenjura
27/08/2023 - Climbing
Ainhize Belar Barrutia repeats world's first 8c, Wolfgang Güllich's Wallstreet in Frankenjura
Spanish climber Ainhize Belar Barrutia has repeated Wallstreet, the world's first 8c established in 1987 by Wolfgang Güllich and located on Krottenseer Turm in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Pete Whittaker frees Eigerdosis, 8c trad crack at Jøssingfjord in Norway
25/08/2023 - Climbing
Pete Whittaker frees Eigerdosis, 8c trad crack at Jøssingfjord in Norway
British rock climber Pete Whittaker has made the first free ascent of the second pitch of 'Eigerdosis' on the Profilveggen / Profile wall at Jøssingfjord in Norway. The previous aid climb is now a trad crack that checks in at 8c.
Jakob Schubert vs Es Pontas, the most difficult deep water solo on Mallorca
24/08/2023 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert vs Es Pontas, the most difficult deep water solo on Mallorca
The video of Austrian climber Jakob Schubert repeating 'Es Pontas', the hardest deep water solo climb water on the island of Mallorca put up by Chris Sharma in 2006.
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
24/08/2023 - Alpinism
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
The report and route topo of 'Utúlie‘n Aurë' (8-/RS3/I), the new multi-pitch first ascended in mid-July on the West Face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.
Paul Pritchard makes first ascent of 'Jean', first trad lead in 25 years
22/08/2023 - Interviews
Paul Pritchard makes first ascent of 'Jean', first trad lead in 25 years
Interview with British rock climber Paul Pritchard who has made the first ascent of the trad climb 'Jean' in Tasmania. This is Pritchard's first trad lead in 25 years, after his near-fatal fall on the Totem Pole in 1998, and his first new route since 1997.
Nadine Wallner climbs Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in under 17 hours with Simon Wahli
21/08/2023 - Alpinism
Nadine Wallner climbs Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in under 17 hours with Simon Wahli
On 23 July 2023 Nadine Wallner completed the Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in 16 hours and 20 minutes. The Austrian mountain guide teamed up with her Swiss colleague Simon Wahli for the 3600+ ascent that leads from the Lauterbrunnental to the 4158m summit in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
19/08/2023 - Alpinism
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
18/08/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
At Rhoscolyn on the island of Anglesey in North Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated the E9 trad climb 'Olwen' while her husband James Pearson has repeated the E10 'Prisoners of the sun'.
Connor Herson's staggering Squamish sending spree
17/08/2023 - Climbing
Connor Herson's staggering Squamish sending spree
American climber Connor Herson has made the second ascent of Crack of Destiny (5.14b/8c) and a fast repeat of Cobra Crack (5.14b/8c) at Squamish, Canada. Other repeats include Spirit Quest (5.14d/9a), Tainted Love (5.13d R/8b) and the multipitch Télmexw (5.13c/8a+).
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route
14/08/2023 - Alpinism
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route
The report by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who earlier this summer made quick repeats of two hard climbs at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites: Panaroma (8b+, 500m) on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo and the Spanish route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo (8b+, 550m).
Jakob Schubert unschlagbar! Boulder & Lead World Champion & qualified for Paris 2024 with Colin Duffy, Tomoa Narasaki
13/08/2023 - Competitions
Jakob Schubert unschlagbar! Boulder & Lead World Champion & qualified for Paris 2024 with Colin Duffy, Tomoa Narasaki
Austria’s Jakob Schubert won the men's Combined Boulder & Lead in Bern last night , while America's Colin Duffy took silver and Japan's Tomoa Narasaki bronze. All three have qualified for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games
Janja Garnbret Boulder & Lead World Champion, qualifies for Paris 2024 with Jessica Pilz & Ai Mori
12/08/2023 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret Boulder & Lead World Champion, qualifies for Paris 2024 with Jessica Pilz & Ai Mori
The women’s Combined Boulder & Lead was won in Bern last night by Janja Garnbret, while Jessica Pilz took silver and Ai Mori bronze. All three have qualified for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
Seb Bouin makes flash first ascent of 8c+ 'Baise moi'
11/08/2023 - Climbing
Seb Bouin makes flash first ascent of 8c+ 'Baise moi'
Sébastien Bouin has made the first ascent of 'Baise moi' at the crag Saint Auban in the Verdon Gorge, France. The Frenchman climbed the route flash style and has suggested the grade 8c+.