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'Climbing has a RED-S problem', Eugen Burtscher & Volker Schöffl resign from IFSC Medical Commission
05/07/2023 - Climbing
'Climbing has a RED-S problem', Eugen Burtscher & Volker Schöffl resign from IFSC Medical Commission
Doctors Eugen Burtscher & Volker Schöffl have both resigned from the IFSC Medical Commission in protest at the International Federation of Sport Climbing's lack of action concerning the RED-S problems of its athletes.
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka
05/07/2023 - Alpinism
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka
Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about the first ascent of 'Magia nera', established on the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites with Martin Tučka.
Gran Sasso d'Italia, Via Ferrata Brizio changes name and becomes Ferrata dei Ginepri
04/07/2023 - Trekking
Gran Sasso d'Italia, Via Ferrata Brizio changes name and becomes Ferrata dei Ginepri
The Teramo section of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) has announced it has changed the name of Via Ferrata Brizio to Via Ferrata dei Ginepri. The decision derives from historical events linked to the application of the racial laws during Italy's fascist period.
Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert victorious in Villars once again
03/07/2023 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert victorious in Villars once again
The second stage of the 2023 lead World Cup was won on Saturday night at Villars in Switzerland by Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert. This is the Slovenian’s 25th lead World Cup gold medal, the Austrian's 20th.
Didier Berthod makes first ascent of The Crack of Destiny at Squamish in Canada
27/06/2023 - Climbing
Didier Berthod makes first ascent of The Crack of Destiny at Squamish in Canada
Swiss climber Didier Berthod has made the first ascent of The Crack of Destiny on The Chief at Squamish in Canada. Graded 5.14, this checks in as one of the hardest crack climbs in North America.
Natalia Grossman wins Boulder World Cup 2023, Janja Garnbret faultless first in Innsbruck
16/06/2023 - Competitions
Natalia Grossman wins Boulder World Cup 2023, Janja Garnbret faultless first in Innsbruck
Last night in Innsbruck, Austria, Janja Garnbret from Slovenia won the sixth and final stage of the 2023 Boulder World Cup. Natalia Grossman (USA) placed second, Nonaka Miho (Japan) placed third. For the third year in a row the overall Boulder World Cup winner was Natalia Grossman; Nonaka placed second,...
Toby Roberts regal at Brixen Boulder World Cup 2023
12/06/2023 - Competitions
Toby Roberts regal at Brixen Boulder World Cup 2023
On Sunday night the fifth stage of the Boulder World Cup 2023 was won at Brixen / Bressanone, Italy, by 18-year-old British climber Toby Roberts. Dohyun Lee (South Korea) and Yoshiyuki Ogata (Japan) placed second and third respectively.
Natalia Grossman bags Brixen for second year running
11/06/2023 - Competitions
Natalia Grossman bags Brixen for second year running
Saturday evening at Brixen / Bressanone, Italy, the fifth stage of the Boulder World Cup 2023 was won by Natalia Grossman (USA), ahead of Chaehyun Seo from South Korea and Staša Gejo from Serbia.
Oriane Bertone, Dohyun Lee win first-ever Boulder World Cup gold at Prague
05/06/2023 - Competitions
Oriane Bertone, Dohyun Lee win first-ever Boulder World Cup gold at Prague
Last weekend Oriane Bertone of France and Lee Dohyun of South Korea claimed their first-ever World Cup gold medals by winning the Prague stage of the Boulder World Cup 2023. Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret claim silver, Flavy Cohaut and Mejdi Schalck bronze.
New multipitch on Punta Argennas in Sardinia by Mathias Mandi, Klaas Willems
02/06/2023 - Climbing
New multipitch on Punta Argennas in Sardinia by Mathias Mandi, Klaas Willems
On Punta Argennas in Sardinia Mathias Mandi and Klaas Willems have made the first ascent of I Ribelli Della Montagna 7c (7a+ obligatory).
Federica Mingolla checks in and out of Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia
30/05/2023 - Climbing
Federica Mingolla checks in and out of Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia
Italian climber Federica Mingolla has repeated Hotel Supramonte, the famous multi-pitch climb in the Gola di Gorropu gorge in Sardinia, established ground-up between 1998 and 1999 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani.
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
24/05/2023 - Alpinism
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
Marek Holeček and Matěj Bernat have completed a big new climb on the NW Face of Sura Peak (6764m) in Nepal. The new route is called Simply Beautiful and was established alpine style by the Czech mountaineers.
Cédric Lachat frees Fantasia to climb his first 9b
18/05/2023 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat frees Fantasia to climb his first 9b
Cédric Lachat has made the first ascent of Fantasia in the Vercors, France. The 38-year-old climber has suggested 9b, making it the first of this grade for the Swissman.
Michele Caminati tiptoes up Toewalker, small trad gem at Bozen
10/05/2023 - Climbing
Michele Caminati tiptoes up Toewalker, small trad gem at Bozen
The report by Michele Caminati who has made the first ascent of Toewalker on the porphyry crags at Bozen in the South Tyrol, Italy. The single-pitch trad climb is graded E7 6c.
Christoph Hainz, Simon Kehrer establish Bella Ramponella in Val dai Tamersc, Fanes, Dolomites
03/05/2023 - Alpinism
Christoph Hainz, Simon Kehrer establish Bella Ramponella in Val dai Tamersc, Fanes, Dolomites
The report by Simon Kehrer who with Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of the mixed climb Bella Ramponella in Val dal Sé, a side valley to Val dai Tamersc, Fanis, Dolomites.
Mezzalama Trophy 2023 / Italians dominate most technical race course ever
26/04/2023 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2023 / Italians dominate most technical race course ever
Mission complete on Monte Rosa: the Italian military corp Alpini won the XXIII edition of the Mezzalama Trophy. Matteo Eydallin, Robert Antonioli and Davide Magnini dominated the men's event, while Giulia Murada, Giulia Compagnoni and Alba De Silvestro clinched a historic gold medal in the women's competition. Eydallin and Nicolini...

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