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Janja Garnbret & Toby Roberts win World Cup Gold in Wujiang
15/04/2024 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret & Toby Roberts win World Cup Gold in Wujiang
The first stage of the Lead World Cup 2024 was won last weekend in Wujiang, China, by Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and Great Britain’s Toby Roberts.
Piz Güglia NW Couloir established solo by Roger Schäli
10/04/2024 - Alpinism
Piz Güglia NW Couloir established solo by Roger Schäli
On 20/03/2024 Swiss mountaineer Roger Schäli made the first ascent of 'Nordwestwand Couloir' (WI5+, M5+, 600m) on Piz Güglia (3380m) in Switzerland's Engadin region.
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
29/03/2024 - Alpinism
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
Austrian alpinist Barbara Vigl reports about a repeat of the 'Gervasutti-Gagliardone' on the East Face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif, carried out in July 2023 by Vigl with Anna Truntschnig and Anna Zechling. Apart from possibly being the first all-female ascent of this route, the repeat underscores the...
La Venta beyond limits / Exploring the Qanaf Cave in Oman
27/03/2024 - Environment
La Venta beyond limits / Exploring the Qanaf Cave in Oman
The Italian La Venta association reports about its first expedition to explore the Qanaf Cave and depths of the desert plateau of Jabal Samḥān in southern Oman.
Seb Berthe makes 3rd ascent of Bon Voyage (E12) at Annot in France
26/03/2024 - Climbing
Seb Berthe makes 3rd ascent of Bon Voyage (E12) at Annot in France
Sébastien Berthe has repeated 'Bon Voyage', the E12 at Annot in France established by James Pearson in February 2023. The route was repeated for the first time by Adam Ondra in February 2023, and Berthe's is now the third ascent. The Belgian climber, who in 2023 flashed the adjacent 'Le...
Hypnotic Lain and Folie Perseverante, two new mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles, Mont Blanc massif
25/03/2024 - Alpinism
Hypnotic Lain and Folie Perseverante, two new mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles, Mont Blanc massif
Santiago Padròs reports about his February 2024 first ascents of two mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles in the Mont Blanc massif: 'Hypnotic Lain' on Pointe de Nantillons with Oliver Gajewski dedicated to Line van den Berg, and 'Folie Perseverante' on Capucin du Requin, climbed with Valérie Dupont and...
European Speed Cup, Gian Luca Zodda & Franziska Ritter win in Poland
18/03/2024 - Competitions
European Speed Cup, Gian Luca Zodda & Franziska Ritter win in Poland
The first stage of the European Speed Cup was won by Italy's Gian Luca Zodda and Germany's Franziska Ritter in Lublin, Poland, last weekend.
On Pointe de Nantillons (Mont Blanc massif) Alain Andrés, Garo Azkue climb Sorterriko Koblak
13/03/2024 - Alpinism
On Pointe de Nantillons (Mont Blanc massif) Alain Andrés, Garo Azkue climb Sorterriko Koblak
On 06/02/2024 Spanish mountaineers Alain Andrés and Garo Azkue made the first ascent of 'Sorterriko Koblak' on Pointe de Nantillons in the Envers des Aiguilles of the Mont Blanc massif. This 400m mixed climb largely follows the rarely climbed summer rock route Dièdre Central, established in 1977 Philippe Grenier, Robert...
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
12/03/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
Without a rope, alone, into the unknown. Martin Feistl reports about the solo first ascent of the mixed climb 'Daily Dose of Luck' (400m, WI 5, M4) established on 24 January 2024 on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria.
Luca Bacer sends Sanjski par ext (9a) at Mišja Peč in Slovenia
11/03/2024 - Climbing
Luca Bacer sends Sanjski par ext (9a) at Mišja Peč in Slovenia
Last week Luca Bacer climbed his first 9a, 'Sanjski par extension' at Mišja Peč in Slovenia. The 25-year-old Italian climber reports.
New ice climbs in Val Travenanzes, Dolomites
06/03/2024 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Val Travenanzes, Dolomites
Sarah Haase reports about three possible new ice climbs located at the entrance to Val Travenanzes in the Dolomites, ascended on 6 February 2024 with Diana Calabuig and Santiago Padros.
Bronwyn Hodgins climbs her first 8c+, La Rubia at Villanueva Del Rosario
04/03/2024 - Climbing
Bronwyn Hodgins climbs her first 8c+, La Rubia at Villanueva Del Rosario
On 28 February 2024 Bronwyn Hodgins of Canada climbed her first 8c+, 'La Rubia' at Villanueva Del Rosario in Spain
Cochamó valley, Chile: new big wall on Cerro Trinidad Central by Leo Gheza, Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz
01/03/2024 - Climbing
Cochamó valley, Chile: new big wall on Cerro Trinidad Central by Leo Gheza, Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz
On Cerro Trinidad Central in Valle Cochamó in Chile the Italian climbers Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz and Leo Gheza have established the big wall 'Nunca say Nunca' (5.12+/A1/1000m). Gheza reports.
Riders on the Storm on Torres del Paine in Patagonia climbed free by Favresse, Smith, Vanhee, Villanueva
19/02/2024 - Alpinism
Riders on the Storm on Torres del Paine in Patagonia climbed free by Favresse, Smith, Vanhee, Villanueva
Over a 18-day period from 24 January to 10 February 2024 'Riders on the Storm', one of the most famous big wall climbs in Patagonia located on the Central Tower in the Torres del Paine massif, was finally climbed free by Nico Favresse, Siebe Vanhee, Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll and Drew...
Adam Ondra repeats Bon Voyage, confirms E12 trad
17/02/2024 - Climbing
Adam Ondra repeats Bon Voyage, confirms E12 trad
On Wednesday 14 February Adam Ondra made the first repeat of 'Bon Voyage', the E12 at Annot in France established by James Pearson in February 2023. The Czech climber needed 3 days of effort and has confirmed the grade of E12 (9a).
Watch Neil Dickson onsight The Hollowman (E8) at Gogarth, North Wales
16/02/2024 - Climbing
Watch Neil Dickson onsight The Hollowman (E8) at Gogarth, North Wales
The Brit Rock video of Neil Dickson onsighting 'The Hollowman' (E8 6c) at Gogarth in North Wales in 2008. Even by today's standards this is considered one of the most impressive onsight ascents of a British trad route.