1891 News found
06/12/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey Seb Bush from Italy, Simon Smith and Mike Turner from the UK have recently established 'Pretty reckless cats' a hard multi-pitch rock climb on the Northwest Face of Kizilin Basì in the Aladağlar National Park in southern Turkey. The 300m climb was established ground-up with the use of aid and...
02/11/2023 - Alpinism
New climb added to White Sapphine peak in Kishtwar Valley by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Hayden Wyatt From 5 - 7 October 2023 Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Hayden Wyatt made the alpine style first ascent of 'Brilliant Blue' (850m, AI3, 80°, M7+) on White Sapphire peak (6040m) in the Kishtwar Valley in India. This is only the 3rd ascent of the mountain overall.
17/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani On the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites) Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani have made the first ascent of Madre Roccia. The 900m climb breaches difficulties of 8b max and 7b mandatory. A total of 18 bolts were placed and while all pitches were freed individually,...
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear only.
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...
04/10/2023 - Climbing
Adam Ondra at Vranjača establishes Croatia's first 9b At Vranjača close to Paklenica in Croatia Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of 'B je to', the country's first 9b.
27/09/2023 - Interviews
Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger Interview with Jakob Schubert after the first ascent of Project Big at Flatanger in Norway last week. The 32-year-old Austrian has now called the climb B.I.G. and suggested the grade 9c. This is currently the third route in the world with this grade, after Silence at Flatanger and DNA in...
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a hitherto unclimbed mountain they have called Marva Peak (5141m).
25/09/2023 - Alpinism
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy On 6 August 2023 on Pera del Ferro in Valle del Ferro (Val Masino, Italy) Matteo Bedendo and Lorenzo Casolini made the first ascent of 'Vascello Fantasma’, Ghost Ship. This route is 'Recommended for those who love climbing in remote and forgotten places in the high mountains, with a penchant...
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
20/09/2023 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert frees Project Big, the king line of Flatanger Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has made the first ascent of Project Big at Flatanger. Bolted by Adam Ondra in 2013, the line was defined by the Czech climber as 'the true king line of the cave.'
14/09/2023 - Alpinism
Greenland 2023: ambitious Mirror Wall attempt abandoned by Cookson, Ditto, Favresse, Villanueva Franco Cookson, Ben Ditto, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva have attempted to forge a new big wall climb on the Mirror Wall in Greenland. As usual the group sailed from Scotland to Greenland. Favresse reports
14/09/2023 - Alpinism
Jakob Schubert attempts 'Project Big' at Flatanger live on youtube Watch Austrian climber Jakob Schubert attempt 'Project Big' at Flatanger in Norway live on youtube today at 17:30.
12/09/2023 - Climbing
Matilda Söderlund nails Niemisis (9a) at Niemisel in Sweden Swedish climber Matilda Söderlund has made the second ascent of Niemisis at Niemisel, which she believes could be graded 9a.
08/09/2023 - Alpinism
New Qualido climb in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Italy) On the ENE face of Qualido in Val di Mello (Val Masino) Michele Cisana, Alessio Guzzetti, Paolo De Nuccio and Andrea Mastellaro made the first ascent of 'Impressioni di Settembre'. The 500 meter route breaches difficulties up to 6c+ (6b+ mandatory) and was dedicated to the deceased friends Giovanni Allevi...
01/09/2023 - Climbing
Louis Gundolf frees old David Lama project on Laserz in Lienz Dolomites Austrian climber Louis Gundolf has made the first free asent of an old David Lama project on the south face of Laserz in the Lienz Dolomites, Austria. The 250m multipitch is called Project Lama and graded 8c+.
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