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Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Watch Seb Bouin sending Bibliographie (9b+) at Céüse
21/05/2024 - Climbing
Watch Seb Bouin sending Bibliographie (9b+) at Céüse
The video of Sébastien Bouin and his repeat of 'Bibliographie', the famous 9b+ at Céüse in France he climbed on 3 June 2023.
Anak Verhoeven climbs Planta de Shiva for a second time, now sans kneepads
21/05/2024 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven climbs Planta de Shiva for a second time, now sans kneepads
At Villanueva del Rosario in Spain Anak Verhoven has climbed the 9b 'Planta de Shiva' for a second time in a week, this time without kneepads.
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
Cool new multipitch on Transatlantico in Italy's Sarca Valley
17/05/2024 - Climbing
Cool new multipitch on Transatlantico in Italy's Sarca Valley
The report by Daniele Bolognani who, with Silvia Bert made the ground-up first ascent of the multipitch rock climb 'Il sole e la luna' on Transatlantico in Valle del Sarca close to Arco, Italy.
Anak Verhoven sends Planta de Shiva (9b) at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain
16/05/2024 - Climbing
Anak Verhoven sends Planta de Shiva (9b) at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain
Yesterday at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain the 27-year-old Belgian climber Anak Verhoven sent Planta de Shiva, becoming only the fourth woman in the world to climb a 9b after Angela Eiter, Laura Rogora and Julia Chanourdie.
Didier Berthod finally climbs Cobra Crack at Squamish, Canada
15/05/2024 - Climbing
Didier Berthod finally climbs Cobra Crack at Squamish, Canada
Swiss climber Didier Berthod has repeated Cobra Crack at Squamish in Canada. Freed by Sonnie Trotter in 2006 and hailed as one of the hardest crack climbs in the world at the time, this fierce splitter was almost freed by Berthod in 2005.
Petzl Legend Tour / Watch Federica Mingolla climb Grand Capucin in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti
13/05/2024 - Alpinism
Petzl Legend Tour / Watch Federica Mingolla climb Grand Capucin in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti
Walter Bonatti, Mont Blanc, his mountaineering. The new episode of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy takes you on a journey through history and time. After a visit to the National Museum of the Mountain, Federica Mingolla and Alberto Boschiazzo climb to the summit of Grand Capucin via the 'Bonatti-Ghigo' route,...
Janja Garnbret makes double send of Bügeleisen Sit 8C in Maltatal, Austria
12/05/2024 - Climbing
Janja Garnbret makes double send of Bügeleisen Sit 8C in Maltatal, Austria
25-year-old Slovenian climber Janja Garnbret has made the first female ascent of "Bügeleisen sit", the 8C boulder problem freed by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014 in the Maltatal, Austria.
Remembering Patrick Berhault, on the 20th anniversary of his death
27/04/2024 - Climbing
Remembering Patrick Berhault, on the 20th anniversary of his death
20 years ago today, on April 28, 2004, the great French climber and mountaineer Patrick Berhault died while attempting to complete the 82 4000ers of the Alps in 82 days. The tribute by his friend Alessandro Grillo.
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
On 12/04/2024 Fay Manners and Anna Tybor skied the North East Ramp on Epaule Sallière at Les Marécottes. This is believed to be the first ski descent of this 5.3 line.
Stefano Ghisolfi is Ready to Fail
23/04/2024 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi is Ready to Fail
The video of Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi and his quest to repeat the first 9c in the world, 'Silence' at Flatanger in Norway, and the world's first 9A boulder problem, 'Burden of Dreams' at Lappnor in Finland.
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
23/04/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
British climber James Pearson has made the third ascent of Bernd Zangerl’s 8A+ highball boulder problem '29 Dots' in Val Noasca, Valle dell'Orco, Italy.
New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites
22/04/2024 - Alpinism
New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites
The report by Luca Giupponi who in 2023 with Rolando Larcher made the ground-up first ascent of the 'Giupponi-Larcher' up Punta Emma on Rosengarten / Catinaccio, Dolomites.

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