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New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
23/08/2021 - Alpinism
New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
A strong Italian-Swiss-French trio comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer has succeeded in establishing and freeing Forum (840m, 7c) on the remote Siren Tower in Greenland. This major big wall was reached by fair means after kayaking a distance of 170km for 5 days.
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
20/08/2021 - Alpinism
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one of which was carried out with Aritza Monasterio.
David Leduc climbs solo in the Valley of Dreams on Agner and Spiz di Lagunaz
12/08/2021 - Alpinism
David Leduc climbs solo in the Valley of Dreams on Agner and Spiz di Lagunaz
29-year-old Belgian mountaineer David Leduc has made fast solo ascents of the Spigolo Nord of Agner and the Diedro Casarotto-Radin on Spiz di Lagunaz (Dolomites). An intimate journey on both sides of the Valley of Dreams.
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...
Tommy Caldwell the unexpected champion in Climbing Sparkling Moments #4
23/07/2021 - Climbing
Tommy Caldwell the unexpected champion in Climbing Sparkling Moments #4
American climber Tommy Caldwell is the focus of the fourth episode of the Climbing Sparkling Moments podcast by La Sportiva.
Dolorock, a wonderful climbing experience in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites
21/07/2021 - Events
Dolorock, a wonderful climbing experience in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites
There are 10 days left until the end of Dolorock, the climbing festival in the Höhlensteintal / Valle di Landro in the Dolomites.
Watch Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni free Leap of Faith on Poncione d’Alnasca
21/07/2021 - Alpinism
Watch Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni free Leap of Faith on Poncione d’Alnasca
The short film by Nicolò and Fulvio Mariani documenting the first free ascent of Leap of Faith on Poncione d’Alnasca in Switzerland, carried out by Matteo Della Bordella and Alessandro Zeni in autumn 2020.
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
15/07/2021 - Alpinism
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
Enenko and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of ¡Viva Perú Carajo !, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Nevado Huamashraju East in Peru. At the same time their expedition partners Manu Ponce and Micher Quito also established a new route up the mountain’s north face.
First ski descents on Monte San Valentin in Patagonia and Altos de los Arrieros in Chile
10/07/2021 - Alpinism
First ski descents on Monte San Valentin in Patagonia and Altos de los Arrieros in Chile
In November 2020 Raimundo De Andraca, Antonio Eguiguren, Sebastian Rojas, Nicolas Valderrama and Galo Viguera scored the first ski descent of South Face of Monte San Valentin, at 4058m the highest mountain in Patagonia. De Andraca and Rojas with Cristonal Diaz and Diego Saez completed the first winter ascent and...
Climbing in Dolomites Höhlensteintal: the five best crags for Dolorock 2021
30/06/2021 - Climbing
Climbing in Dolomites Höhlensteintal: the five best crags for Dolorock 2021
Mountain guide Daniel Rogger introduces the five best crags in Höhlensteintal / Valle di Landro in the Dolomites, ideally suited for the Dolorock Climbing Festival scheduled to take place in July: Landro Classico, Scheeweg / Franchi, Stube and Balkonien, Grotte di Landro and the Militare Alpini crag
Five must see crags at Arco, the birthplace of sport climbing as we know it
09/06/2021 - Climbing
Five must see crags at Arco, the birthplace of sport climbing as we know it
Massone, Nago, Belvedere, Spiaggia delle Lucertole and Calvario: five crags you must visit to savour the best sport climbing around Arco and Lake Garda. This is the first article in a series made with Vibram, to celebrate climbing yesterday, today and tomorrow as part of its 'Learn to Climb with...
Jonas Schild sends Bain de Sang at Saint Loup in Switzerland
07/06/2021 - Climbing
Jonas Schild sends Bain de Sang at Saint Loup in Switzerland
On 4 May 2021 Swiss mountain guide Jonas Schild repeated Bain de Sang, the classic 9a at Saint Loup in Switzerland first ascended by Fred Nicole in 1993.
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
06/05/2021 - Climbing
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
Rolando Larcher introduces the splendid crag La Severina close to Palinuro in Campania, Italy. A '40m high overhanging forest of stalactites' developed between 2019 and 2020 that currently boasts 20 routes between 6b and 8c.
Monte Colodri, Arco: Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana complete their Opera Buffa
29/04/2021 - Alpinism
Monte Colodri, Arco: Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana complete their Opera Buffa
On the east face of Monte Colodri in Arco (Sarca Valley, Italy) Alessandro Beber and Matteo Pavana have established the multi-pitch rock climb Opera Buffa (270m, 7c+). Beber reports.
Rock climbing at Sperlonga featured in Petzl Legend Tour Italy
27/04/2021 - Climbing
Rock climbing at Sperlonga featured in Petzl Legend Tour Italy
After the magnificent limestone crags at Finale Ligure, the second stage of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy stops off at Sperlonga, the hotspot for sport climbing development in Central Italy during the 1980’s.
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
21/04/2021 - Alpinism
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
Italian mountaineers Leonardo Gheza and Giulia Venturelli enchained the north faces of Adamello, Cima della Busazza and Presanella in a single day. The 51km outing covered 3700 vertical gain and was completed in 22 hours.