A special Rock Master
The best climbers in the world to compete in Arco for the 19th Rock Master this weekend.
1986 - 2005 twenty climbing competition years at Arco
There can be no doubt: the record that is about to be set at Arco has no equals and must be celebrated in style. And the Rock Master Association had quite rightly decided to celebrate this Master with a special edition: two decades have passed since Sport Roccia 1986 which saw Arco and her Colodri walls host, together with Bardonecchia, her first ever competition. Since then, year in year out, 18 competitions have taken place in Arco and this 19th edition presents itself as being truly special.
The evening show with the protagonists of the past and future
All is set for the evening show which begins at 21.00 at the CasinÃ² di Arco. The history of 20 years climbing in the Sarca valley will be presented, from the historical first Sport Roccia competition in 1986 to tomorrowâs 19th event. Many past protagonists who contributed in rendering Arco a myhical climbing destination will attend. From Lynn Hill to Stefan Glowacz, from Patrick Edlinger to Luisa Iovane, continuing with FranÃ§ois Legrand, Liv Sansoz, Jacky Godoffe, JB Tribout and many more. These will be joined by other faces who have played a fundamental role in Rock Masterâs history, such as Mario Morandini and Angelo Seneci. They will be joined by Emanuele CassarÃ and Andrea Mellano, the inventors of that historic first Sport Roccia held back in 1985 in Bardonecchia.
The evening will be conducted by the Italian journalist Leonardo Bizzarro from âLa Repubblicaâ. Extracts from Giorgio Balducciâs film âRock Master, appunti sparsiâ will be shown and the book âRock Master climbing at Arcoâ by Giulio Malfer and Vinicio Stefanello (Ed. Nicolodi) will be discussed.
Saturday morning a great meeting at Massone
Whilst waiting for the Rock Master to begin, what could be better than to climb on one of the many crags in the Sarca valley? As is tradition! This time though, while waiting for the 19th Master to start, head to Massone: it's there that the great champions who took part in Friday evening's special will climb in this great pre-competition meeting. This is another great way to remember the origins of the Rock Master: the great and limitless Sarca limestone.
The 19th Rock Master
Saturday at 14.00 all head off to the Climbing Stadium: it's Rock Master time. The first day revolves round the "on-sight". This is a fundamental stage because, as all know, it's important to get off to the right start at Arco: even the slightest error costs dearly, especially low down on the route. Emotions play an important role too, and all athletes know that they are climbing infront of one of the most competent crowds in the world. It is because of this emotional factor that predictions have always been difficult at Arco. But it is certain that Alexandre Chabot (three consecutive victories) will hope for his poker, while it is equally certain that double world champion Tomasz Mrazek will do his best to add this missing title to his list of achievements. These two will have to watch out for local Flavio Crespi, the current leader of the World Cup, who has his sights set on the first ever Italian victory, as well as the two Spaniards Patxi Usobiaga and Ramon J. Puigblanque.
Three times winner Muriel Sarkany is absent this year, leaving the road clear for Angela Eiter: fresh from victory in the World Championships in Munich and current leader of the WC, surely nothing can stop her from winning her first grand slam. Young Eyer from Switzerland, Sandrine Levet from France and Maja Vidmar from Slovenia will do their best to stop her.
The classic Rock Maser formula will be joined by the Speed event at 20.00 on Saturday evening and the time to beat will be the staggering 10.85 seconds set by Tomasz Olesky. This comp will be followed by the women's Sint Roc Boulder Contest, comprised of Olga Bibik (RUS), Ioulia Abramthouck (RUS), MÃ©lanie Son (FRA), Anna Sthor (AUT), Emilie Abgrall (FRA) Giovanna Pozzoli (ITA) and Lisa Benetti (ITA). The men's bouldering competition is scheduled for 14.00: Stefano Ghidini (ITA) Kilian Fischhuber (AUT); Loic Gaidioz (FRA); Matthias MÃ¼ller (SUI); Serik Kazbekov (UKR); Tomasz Oleksy (POL); Nalle Hukkataival (FIN).
The grand final is expected for Sunday afternoon and the Lattisi Trophy, the duel challenge up two identical parrallel routes for the best four Rock Master athletes.
Much is at stake this weekend, see you in Arco!
photo Angela Eiter by Giulio Malfer