Sasso di Fontana Mora: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Seriana
On Sasso Fontana Mora in Val Seriana (Bergamo Alps, Italy) Davide Rottigni and Dario Nani made the first ascent of Via 10 (7b+, 200m). A multi-pitch rock climb that joins their nearby Via 60 (7b, 200m).
I still wonder why a 15-minute wide face, 300m high, is only called “Sasso”, stone. The peak struts majestically from the pines below and definitely does not seem gentle, although early on summer mornings the sun renders the atmosphere less severe. It stands high in Valle Sedornia, an area where, thousands of years ago, strange rituals were made for the God Saturn...
Another anomaly is that before our 2006 route no one had ever climbed the entire face, there was no direttissima, nothing up the ridge, no aid routes, nothing. On second thoughts, this isn’t strange at all, because on all eight pitches the difficulties never drop below 6c and wherever you look, there are no obvious signs of weaknesses.
In recent years some single pitch rock climbs were established, up bulging slabs past excellent rock higher up and less than ideal rock at the start. In total 6 routes up to 35 meters were bolted, from 6c (in line with the rest of the climbing) to 7b+.
Last year, with new vertical motivation we first ascended and freed the route 10 (named in honor of the 10th anniversary of the Koren climbing club). Our idea was to reach the summit independently, but in the end we the last two pitches are shared with the route 60 (our 2006 route) so as to avoid the grassy ledges.
The result is a quality climb, requiring good technique and footwork up the slightly overhanging face.
If you go to Sasso di Fontana Mora you’ll find our routes, Diego Pezzoli’s modern aid route Generazioni a Confronto, and two other lines which, hopefully soon, will be completed.
Ringrazio Wild Climb per il supporto che ci fornisce.
TOPO: 10, Sasso di Fontana Mora, Bergamo Alps
TOPO: 60, Sasso di Fontana Mora, Bergamo Alps
Roccia a buchetti e svasi , non sempre perfetta nei primi metri. Da sx oltre al primo tiro di 6c della via 10 abbiamo:
6c, 32m, una prima parte con roccia un po’ sporca, ma che poi si fa perdonare nella parte superiore con una bella placca a buchi distanti.
7b+, 35m, molto bella e varia , con movimenti difficili per uscire dal primo strapiombo
7b, 32m, segue il primo tiro di 60 per uscire direttamente
7a+, 25m, diedro iniziale e pancia strapiombante a buchetti
6c+, 28m, continuità su prese buone ma piedi cattivi
6c, 20m, passaggio iniziale duro su buchetti svasi