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Yuji Hirayama climbing up to The Great Roof during the record breaking speed ascent of the Nose together with Hans Florine in 2:37:05.
Photo by Tom Evans
Yuji Hirayama & Hans Florine at the top of The Nose, El Capitan, USA.
Photo by Florine archive

New Speed record on The Nose El Capitan by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine


Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine have once again broken their Speed record on The Nose, El Capitan, climbing the route in 2:37:05

Yuji Hirayama from Japan and Hans Florine from the U.S.A. have just set a new Speed record on El Capitan's The Nose, climbing the route in a mere 2:37:05, beating the previous record set by themselves in July this year by a staggering 6 minutes. 

The new record, announced previously by Yuji himself in our interview after his summer raid, came about after a series of practice runs at the end of September. The two set off on 12 October at 10.20 am and, passing only four parties along the route, topped out at 12:57:03 pm. Florine breaks their simul-climbed ascent down as follows:
to Sickle Ledge: 18 minutes (previous best 16:20);
to Dolt Tower: 46 minutes (previous best 56 minutes);
to Eagle Ledge: 1:04 (previous best 1:06);
to Camp 4: 1:28 (previous best 1:26);
to top: 2:37:05 (previous best 2:43:33).

The Nose, which celebrates its 50 anniversary this year, is one of the world's most famous rock climbs and was first ascended over a five week period by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore. The first free ascent was carried out by none other than Lynn Hill in 1993 in what is hailed as one of the most significant free climbing achievements ever. The route had to wait a further 12 years for its first repeat, at the hands of the extremely talented American Tommy Caldwell.

The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite, U.S.A.
First ascent: W. Harding, W. Merry, G. Whitmore - 1958
Length: 870 m (31 pitches)
Grade: 5.13c or 5.9 A2
First free ascent: Lynn Hill '93





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