Mauro Calibani's bouldering tour

The Italian boulderer Mauro Calibani climbs "La Boule" 8a at a Cresciano sale, "La scelta" 8a at Cubo and, together with C. Brenna, a 7c+ traverse and “Decksandrumsandrockandroll” 7c

PlanetMountain.com

February 2001

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Bouldering, friends and travels - not strictly in that order but definitely interlinked - are the ingredients for Mauro Calibani's latest trip to the north of Italy. A brief visit to "Cubo" resulted in a quick repeat of Alberto Gnerro's "La scelta", fourth attempt in just 30 mins. In Val di Mello he flashed “Decksandrumsandrockandroll” 7c and, together with Cristian Brenna, repeated a new 7c+ traverse. Moving on to Cresciano he climbed the mega-classic "La Boule" 8a.

This is what Mauro had to say:

La Boule

"Together with Ama, Cristian, Fede and Marzio we left for Cresciano, one of the most important bouldering sites in Europe. The weather was fantastic, perhaps a bit warm, too warm. But it doesn't matter - at 11.00 the battle begins..

We reach "Boule" at about 14.00 after a dozen warm-ups. This mythical boulder was originally given 8b until it was downgraded by Fred Nicole to 8a. The problem is beautiful, the grey rock shines brightly beneath the sun's rays. We alternate, trying the moves which Cristian, who has already sent the problem, knows perfectly!

After a couple of hours (perhaps it would have been wiser to rest longer) finally all things come together. I manage to hold the hard shoulder move on the rounded corner for my left hand, reach the first edge, intermediate, second edge, argh, my feet cut loose an I only just manage to get them back on and then a dyno for the top! I'm really happy and hug everybody! See you next time Cresciano, finger trasher!

I want to thank Cristian Brenna for his hospitality and also Marzio Nardi - once again I really enjoyed climbing with both of them!"

Mauro Calibani

Mauro Calibani and Stefano Finocchi are the protagonists of ALPwall's 2001 'Incontri' , the first of four editions devoted to climbing by the Italian Vivalda Editori .