Climbing at Monte Terlago, Arco
Sport climbing at Monte Terlago, a beautiful gem in Valle dei Laghi (Arco - Trento, Italy). By Matteo Pavana and Valerio Ballardini.
I began developing Monte Terlago about 5 years ago. As soon as I saw the crag I knew it would be home to some beautiful routes but after having bolted the first two I "had to" leave this beautiful piece of rock and devote time to another big project. About 3 years ago I returned to this place and with the help of Luca Forti, Matteo Pavana and other friends we continued where I’d left off, adding many more routes. There’s still lot’s of work to do in the future as the face is huge!
The upper sector is slightly overhanging with sharp pockets and crimps. Some routes are long and require a good deal of courage to climb between one bolt and the next. The lower sector is completely different: pitches up to 30 meters in height, up tufas, crimps, pockets and slopers. The climbing is very powerful with bouldery cruxes followed by stamina climbing. Grades in the upper sector range from 6c to 8a, with in the lower sector they range from 6c to 8b/+. You can find all the routes and grades in the new guidebook ‘Arco e dintorni’ published by Versante Sud. Safe climbing
HARD WORK and INSPIRATION
There are two terms that should help entire climbing community understand the process behind the bolting a new cliff. I first met Valerio one evening at the pub three, maybe four years ago at Povo, just a stone’s throw from home, close to Trento. I had just finished studying that night, during that time when I had yet to understand what I wanted to do with my life, while skipping university lessons and going climbing instead. That evening I was with another friend of mine, Luca, who was also going through that phase between bored student and eager worker. We talked about projects and new places to develop and it was then that I decided to help develop a new crag. Luca was immediately psyched by Valerio’s proposal. I politely refused, since I didn’t know a thing about bolting a crag. Probably the real reason was that I wanted to climb, instead of spending my free time hard at work. A few months later we were invited with some friends to climb to this wonderful crag: in retrospect I have to admit I’m sorry I didn’t contribute more than the single route I bolted several months later. I have great admiration for all those who become completely absorbed by their passion, so taken in that it develops into a talent. Passion, dedication and humility led to the completion of this crag which might well be one of the most beautiful in the Arco - Trento. I would like to thank, in addition to those who developed the crag, my friend Davide Negretti, who today might well be labelled a super nerd who knows everything about drones, but I prefer to interpret his know-how as a valuable talent."
Matteo Pavana - The Vertical Eye
TOPO: Monte Terlago, Arco