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Broad Peak winter 2008
Photo by arch. Simone Moro
Broad Peak winter 2008
Photo by arch. Simone Moro
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Broad Peak winter attempt: Simone Moro and Co. towards Camp 3


Simone Moro, Shaheen Baig and Qudrat Ali are attempting Broad Peak, Pakistan in winter. At present they have established Camp 2 at 6200m,

A small expedition comprised of Simone Moro, Shaheen Baig and Qudrat Ali is currently engaged in the first winter ascent of Broad Peak, 8047m, Pakistan. The trio arrived in Pakistan on 21 December but bureaucratic and logistical problems (including loss of gear) resulted in the expedition reaching base camp over a month later. Not disheartened, the trio set to work immediately and established Camp 1 at 5800 on 30/01/08, and Camp 2 at 6200m on 03/02. Yesterday they set off to establish Camp 3 at circa 7800m but were pinned down in Camp 1 by high winds and intense cold down to -41°C.

Simone Moro attempted Broad Peak in winter 2007 but turned back at 7150m. The expedition is currently playing the waiting game, in the hope of a bit of luck and a blessed weather window. No 8000m peak in Pakistan has been climbed in winter yet. Could this mean a thing or two?

11 February 2008
From the expedition diary
There are already 45 days than I left Bergamo, my home city and it looks that I have to spend others 45 days here... Today I read on the web that also my Italian friend (Romano, Nives, Luca) attempting Makalu in winter decided to go back. I'm really sorry and it is a pity. I knew they were ready for that climb but the actual winter is really unhuman, impossible, terrible. I want to send them my congratulation because they did their best but again the power of the nature nobody can win. There were 4 winter expedition in this season 2007/2008(Italian on Nanga Parbat, Kazakh on Makalu, Italian on Makalu, Italian/Pakistani on Broad Peak) and now we remain the only still here. Probably we also will accept the failure... but we have still 1 month of food, kerosene and petrol, a very repeared Base Camp and we want to play the cart of "patience" of "wait". In 45 days we had 3 days of good weather for 15/20 hours and no more. So I'm sure that these conditions had to stop and change one day... I hope that change will happen in the next month. Yesterday we had a very hard day. Despite the terrible conditions (cold and wind) we decide to transport all the equipment for C3 to C1. We climbed in 3 hours 40 minutes only , with heavy packs, resisting to the extreme cold and wind. Karl Gabl told us that at 6500 m there were -41°......... In C1 I decide to stop and go back avoiding an impossible night on te mountain. In fact today the wind is stronger and the temperature continue to go down... Now all the equipment is 1000 meters higher than BC so next time we will climb empty. But when will be the next time? We need blue sky and sun now... This bastard winter I'm sure one day will stop to shake our tents and strength and the sun will come. I hope to be here when it will happen...

Simone Moro





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