Oriane Bertone a Fontainebleau libera il suo primo 8C boulder

Con impressionante facilità Oriane Bertone ha salito quello che, se confermato, sarà il suo primo boulder di 8C, Satan I Helvete low start a Fontainebleau in Francia. La 15enne climber dell'isola della Riunione aveva sconvolto tutti i parametri nel 2018 quando, a soli 12 anni, aveva salito il suo primo blocco da 8B+. Adesso ha alzato l’asticella raggiungendo l’attuale vertice del boulder femminile con questa prima salita che aggiunge una partenza bassa al famoso boulder Satan I Helvete liberato da Dave Graham.

La prima a salire queste altissime difficoltà è stata la statunitense Ashima Shiraishi che nel 2016 aveva ripetuta Horizon a Mount Hiei in Giappone, mentre nel 2018 la tedesca Katrin Lehmann aveva ripetuto Kryptos a Morchelstock in Svizzera. Quest’anno la giapponese Mishka Ishi è diventata la più giovane a salire questo grado a soli 13 anni con la ripetizione del blocco Byaku-dou di Dai Koyamada a Mt. Hourai, mentre adesso è stata la vota della Campionessa del mondo Giovanile delle discipline Lead e Boulder. Con estrema facilità. Guardare il video sotto per credere.

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{"Satan I Helvete low start" — 8c} This trip in lockdown in Fontainebleau taught me much more than I expected. During this quarantine, my motivation suddenly went down. It was surely the hardest month of training I’ve never experienced. But thanks to that, I’ve learned that progress is the only real objective I must have. Become and relive each day, renew and reinvent yourself with new shades of color on our canvas. Simply progress, move forward and keep your head up high. Dare to accept yourself as you are. Dare to accept being kneaded, molded and shaped with defaults and qualities, and that perfection and achievement of results doesn’t simply mean accomplishment. Accomplishment is the accumulation, the acceptance that our falls, our adjustments, our fears, our doubts, our abandonments and our surpassings are neither useless nor lost. That the way taken may be the right one, and that the longest path sometimes hides more treasures than the shortest path. It is thanks to all these stages, these stops, these injuries, these fears, tears and these questions that each in his own way progresses and advances. Here is "Satan I Helvete" my very first 8c and long-standing project. During this journey, I did some wonderful boulders that I’ll surely post later Everything obviously wouldn’t have been possible without the support of my family, my friends and my sponsors, thank you so much for your incredible work and your big involvement, I’ll never be able to thank you enough ! @scarpafrance @e9clothing_official @team_edelrid @verticalartclimbing @basaltevolution @zer0_3000

A post shared by OяıΔηε Βεяτoηε (@oriane_bertone) on May 27, 2020 at 6:48am PDT