Charlotte Durif e Josh Larson aprono Vuelo del Condor, nuova multipitch sul Kuntur Sayana in Perù
Ad una quota di 4600m Charlotte Durif e Josh Larson hanno aperto Vuelo del Condor, una difficile nuova multipitch sul Kuntur Sayana in Perù
La climber francese Charlotte Durif e lo statunitense Josh Larson hanno aperto una via di più tiri di rilievo in Peru. Si tratta di Vuelo del Condor, situata ad una quota di ben 4600 metri, sulla parete Kuntur Sayana vicino a Pitumarca che avevano scoperto già l’anno scorso durante il loro viaggio arrampicata attorno al mondo.
Quest’anno i due sono tornati e durante un periodo di 9 giorni hanno aperto la via su un calcare descritto come assolutamente perfetto. Alternandosi da capocordata e arrampicando in grande velocità sui tiri finali per evitare una tempesta, il 19 settembre i due sono riusciti a liberare la via in giornata. La via offre sette tiri, con difficoltà sostenute: 8a+, 7b+, 8a, 8a, 8a, 7c, 5-.
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6:30am is when the sun hits the first pitch - a sustained 35m 8a+. Neither of us were warmed up but we were ready and that’s half of it. I took the lucky draw and pulled on first. Before we knew it, we both were at the anchor of Pitch 1. Damn! Let keep this pace up for the remaining 6!? • Fast-forward • I made it to the anchor of the 5th pitch (8a) out of breath, cramped arms from climbing, belaying and hauling and maybe dehydrated. It felt good knowing it was the last hard pitch - two more until the summit. As @chadurif started to follow - thunder roared in the distance. Then lightning. Wind picked up. You could see that it was a dark snow storm. It was about to get epic if we didn’t move fast. It seemed like Cha and the storm moved in sync...closer and closer. She arrived, took one min to catch her breath and she took off on the last two pitches - linking them into a 60m pitch (7c into 5+). We reached the summit completely out of breath and wrecked but so damn happy we did it and did it together. “Vuelo de Condor” 8a+ Bolted and FA by @chadurif and I over the course of a 9-days! Damn it was freaking fun!!! • It seemed crazy to do something like this at high altitude and in a remote village in the Andes of Peru. But hey, we tried our best and did the thing • Length: 230m / 754’ Elevation: 4800m / 15,748’ 7 pitches: 8a+, 7b+, 8a, 8a, 8a, 7c, 5- Two pancakes and a hard boiled egg in my pocket. Water and stoke • Thank you to all! @mountainhardwear @petzl_official @7aescueladescalada @cocorsirvas and @frictionlabs @fiveten_official @jan_novak_photography (who took photo 1) and hung out on the wall with us to document the times! #mountainhardwear #petzl #peru #pitumarca #pitumarcaclimbing #vuelodecondor