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Cuori di ghiaccio

First ascent: Sergio Fiorenzano, Ezio Marlier 25/10/2019
By: Ezio Marlier, Mountain Guide
Area: Western Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Grand Flambeau, Height: 3535m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Great climb up Gran Flambeau, past thin ice and lots of mixed terrain.

GETTING THERE

Reach Courmayeur in Italy and take the Skyway cable car up to Rifugio Torino.

ACCESS

From the Torino hut head towards Colle Flambeau, a few hundred meters before on the left head towards the wall. The face is on the left, 5 min from the refuge. The route starts 30m before the arete. Starting altitude 3360m.

ROUTE

P1: 25m nice pitch with sections of M5, bolt belay with sling on ledge in the middle of the gully
P2: 30m M7 start up overhang, fairly difficult to get established above this (bolt on the left above the overhang), then gully and not easy exit, bolt at exit and bolted belay with sling
P3: 45m classic winter difficulties, 50° leftwards to the base of the gully, bolt belay with sling on the right
P4: 45m follow the (wonderful) gully and then continue up wide open slopes
P5: 45m classic winter difficulties up to an obvious triangle where the line joins the last belay of Koala pirla

DESCENT

Abseil down the route.

GEAR

Friends up to BD blue, set of nuts, slings. Two 50m half ropes. Ice screws are pratically useless here.

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TD+, M6/6+

FACE

East

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