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Sole - Aiguille de la Brenva

First ascent: Gianpaolo Ducly, Ezio Marlier 12/2016
By: Ezio Marlier, Mounta Guide
Area: Western Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Aiguille de la Brenva, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Ephemeral mixed modern climb uo the east face of Aiguille de la Brenva. Take gear to backup all belays.


Approach by ascending from Pavillon (not recommended) or by descending from Punta Helbronner with skis along the Toula Glacier (40 minutes).


P1: M4 Ascend the gully and mixed terrain rightward (belay on spike)
P2: WI 4 start up a nice 15 m drip and reach the intermediate snowfield
P3: reach the top of the snowfield at the base of the gully, belay on the right
P4: WI 4 beautiful 50 m gully, belay on a small terrace on the right
P5: M5 the difficulties begin, belay on the right
P6: M6 a difficult start is followed by a pleasant gully
P7: WI 4 follow the gully to the amphitheater
P8: follow the snowfield leftwards to join the Pellin /Buccella route and follow this to the summit


Full alpine rack. No gear left in-situ. Take gear to backup all abseils and the belays.

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Details / Icefall

stella stella stella stella stella


WI5, M6


400m (300m independant)


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