Cima Busazza, Presanella, Out Of The Blue, Emanuele Andreozzi, Ruggero Samanden

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Out of the Blue - Cima Busazza

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Emanuele Andreozzi

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The first ascent of 'Out Of The Blue' on Cima Busazza in Presanella (Emanuele Andreozzi, Ruggero Samanden 22/01/2026)

Emanuele Andreozzi

Beauty

First ascent

Emanuele Andreozzi, Ruggero Samanden 22/01/2026

Emanuele Andreozzi

Orientation

North

Length

240m

Height

3325m

Difficulty

M6+

Departure

Passo del Tonale

Published on

23/02/2026

Route

A highly logical line that climbs the central of the three large parallel corner on the buttress to the right of the main north face. Compared to the "twin" routes flanking it, this line somehow offers better ice tool placements — larger, deeper, and almost never precarious. This characteristic likely makes it the most enjoyable and fun of the three routes. The two upper corners feature numerous moves on frozen clumps of turf, while the first pitch alternates between pure dry tooling on rock and solid bubbles of alpine ice, offering in our opinion an overall exhilarating pitch.

We climbed in traditional style, using only 4 rock pegs, all left in-situ. Two are at the third belay and could easily remain buried after a snowfall. As with the nearby Teti route, which saw many repeats last season, this line lends itself well to being repeated, which of course always pleases us, provided that our style of ascent is respected. We therefore ask that the route be kept free of any additional gear, both along the pitches and at the belays. In line with this request, for the descent please use the abseils of the nearby Via Teti , so that in the future Out of the Blue can remain completely free of in-situ gear and maintain the style in which it was opened. Thank you.

Getting there

Reach Passo del Tonale

Access

1. Take the lift to the top of the Presena cable car. Descend briefly down the slope and, at the first large wall, exit and follow the tracks of the well-known off-piste route ‘Cantiere’. As soon as possible, leave the descent tracks and traverse long under the west face of Busazza. At the end of the traverse, put on your skins and start climbing up around the face until you reach the glacier at the base of the north face. (time approx. 1 hour and a half on skis).

2. Park at the water treatment plant (2 km before Passo del Tonale going up from Trentino, approx. 1800m). Cross the small bridge and follow the forest road that leads to Alveo del Lago Presena (2160m) (signposts, directions), which can be reached in about 1 hour, passing through a characteristic tunnel (be careful if it is icy; there are fixed ropes as handrails). From Alveo Presena, immediately turn left and climb diagonally up moderately steep snowy slopes (35° max) in a south-easterly direction, skirting the rocks of a distinct ridge that descends directly from the small glacier at the base of the north face of Busazza (time approx. 4 hours).

GPS coordinates: 46°13'32.7‘N 10°36'27.0’E; 46.225751, 10.607511

Descent

Continue for 30 meters along the easy snowy ridge until reaching the exit of the Teti Route, down which, with four abseils, you quickly return to the base. It is also possible – but more demanding – to continue along the ridge via the Dibona Route (max M4+) and reach the summit, before abseuling down the La Forza della Mente route, which leads back to the base of the wall, or by descending the west gully. In this latter case, however, you do not return to the base.

Gear

A complete set of cams plus a set of micros, doubling sizes 0.4, 0.5 and 1. A good selection of nuts and eccentrics, a pecker, and a few rock pegs useful for emergencies.