Mediterraneo - Punta Giradili

Maurizio Oviglia
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Maurizio Oviglia climbing 'Mediterraneo' up Punta Giradili in Sardinia in 1997. The route was established ground-up in 1996 by Oviglia with Mario Ogliengo and Patrick Raspo
Mattia Vacca
Beauty
First ascent
Maurizio Oviglia, Mario Ogliengo, Patrick Raspo i23-24/10/1996, groud-up
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
SW
Length
240m
Height
732m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6b obbl /S2/II

Route



Mediterraneo is an elegant climb that weaves its way between the huge overhangs of the lefthand side of Punta Giradili. It ascends on a strip of exceptional grey limestone, offering huge exposure next to the giant roof (the vault is more than 100 m off the ground).

The difficulties are always continuous and the belays are not particularly comfortable. The crux overhangs considerably and this is way a rappel from this point is not recommended (even if equipped for abseil); a traverse towards the sheepfold is recommended. The other pitches are mostly vertical slabs.

Over time the route has become a great classic, perhaps the most popular on Punta Giradili due in part to the fact that it is one the shortest and remains in the shade for longer during the hot summer months.

Getting there

Follow the SS125 to Baunei and turn left shortly before entering the village proper (sign for Ristorante del Golgo). Continue steeply uphill, turn right at the first hairpin bend (signposted Monte Ginnirco) and follow the dirt track to where it joins another road. Turn right, continue down into the valley and up past the second hairpin bend to then turn right into the Cuile Despiggius opening. Park here.

Access

Walk through the gate at the cuile (always close it behind you) along the mule track. After a few metres, on the right, a path branches off leading down to the Cengia Giradili (which is the same as the Selvaggio Blu). Descend for about 15–20 minutes until you reach another small gate. Once past this, after a few minutes, reach a passage amidst large boulders that almost form a roof over the path. Once past this section, take care because a faint track (cairns) branches off to the left; take this and follow it up to the foot of a small rock face. Walk along the side of the short wall to the right and, just past a large bush, note the fixed ropes on the left (check their condition). Ascend these (see photo) for a few metres and, facing the wall, head up leftwards towards the large cave. The route starts a few metres to the right of the cave. First bolt high up; there is no name at the base. Allow at least 30 minutes for the approach.

GPS coordinates: 40° 2' 34.14'', 9° 42' 13.08''

Itinerary

P1: 6b+
P2: 6a+
P3: 6b+
P4: 7a+
P5: 6b
P6: 6a
P7: 6c
P8: two alternatives:
a) exit to the left, past a difficult crux (6c+) to reach the edge of the wall, (15m), this is the original exit
b) exit right on rough, slightly overhanging rock past beautiful climbing to leave the wall (6c). This finish was bolted at a later date. The final pitch of 7b pitch of Oiscura ascends straight up between these two exiots.

Gear

The climb is compltely bolted. Take 12 quickdraws and two 50m ropes.





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20/03/2024 Nicholas Hobley

Fantastica, un capolavoro. L'ultimo tiro siamo usciti verso destra, molto bello, consigliato.

Beauty
First ascent
Maurizio Oviglia, Mario Ogliengo, Patrick Raspo i23-24/10/1996, groud-up
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
SW
Length
240m
Height
732m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6b obbl /S2/II

Route



Position



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