Dolomiti Race - Piz Ciavazes
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Christoph Hainz
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Christoph Hainz
Dolomiti Race on Piz Ciavazes is a a very beautiful multi-pitch alpine sports climb on grey and reddish rock marked by pockets. Established ground-up and rope-solo, the climbing is exposed. The entire route is bolted and all the belays are equipped with chains.
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left.
AccessFrom the car park follow a small path up to the wall. Head towards the obvious large chimney. The route starts to the right of this.
ItineraryP1: 6b+, 30m
P2: 5b, 18m
P3: 7a+, 20m
P4: 7a, 20m
P5: 6b, 20m
P6: 6b, 25m
P7: 5b, 30m
P8: 6a, 25m
P9: 7a, 12m
P10: 6c/c+, 23m
P11: 6a+, 37m
P12: 6a, 15m
P13: 2b, 30m
Reach the ledge at half-height and traverse west (towards Passo Sella) following the obvious path (exposed at times but equipped with metal cables). After a short rise, close to the Sella towers, follow obvious tracks down over polished rock. The path gains height once more before reaching a fork and final step: descend left to return to the car or continue right to reach Passo Sella easily.
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Direi un capolavoro, complimenti per aver trovato una linea così bella che richiede tecnica e un po' di continuità in una striscia di parete ancora libera.
Gran bella via sportiva! Spittatura plasir ed omogenea su tutti i tiri. Gradi corretti. Roccia ottima. Possibile e conveniente unire molti tiri. Facendo così 3 ore sei fuori. Quindi ideale con tempo incerto (ma difficile calarsi). Destinata a diventare la via sportiva più frequentata del Ciavazes.