Francesco Salvaterra, Mountain Guide
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The line of Calypso in Gola del Limarò, Valle del Sarca, Italy (Vittorio Giovannella, Francesco Salvaterra 04/2019)
Francesco Salvaterra / Vittorio Giovannella
Beauty
First ascent
Vittorio Giovannella, Francesco Salvaterra 4/2019
By
Francesco Salvaterra, Mountain Guide
Orientation
West
Length
150m
Difficulty
6b
Obligatory difficulty
(6a/A0)/RS2/II
Published on
15/05/2020

Route



Calypso is a plaisir rock climb that tackles the wall at the end of the canyon. The climbing is both interesting and varied in a beautiful setting. Although it’s mainly bolted, some sections need protecting with cams. The rock has been cleaned but will improve as more climbers repeat the route.

Getting there

The climbs are located in the canyon a few hundred meters upstream from the base of the Maestri Corner, but the most convenient approach is from above. From drive uphill past the hairpin bends towards Ponte Arche. After the second tunnel reach a long straight stretch; park on the right near the bike path.

GPS coordinates: 46.050607,10.937081

Access

Descend the bike path toward Sarche for about 200 meters. After passing an intersection with a dirt road that ascends to the right, you'll see a SAT sign with directions on the left. From the sign, continue down a few more meters until you reach a fence on the left. Just before it, a faint trail descends into the woods, skirting a wall overlooking the canyon.

Follow the trail until it becomes exposed—a fixed rope has been placed here. Once on the riverbed, head downstream, passing beneath the Crispino wall, until the Sarca River blocks the path (directly across from the route). Leave your shoes behind and ford the stream (knee-deep water). Immediately after crossing, on the left, you’ll find the routes "Welcome to Tijuana" and "The Passenger."

Continue along the river’s edge until reaching a narrow ledge between the water and the cliff. At the end of the ledge, the route begins on the left—route name the base, and bolts are visible. Allow about 25 minutes from the car to the start of the climb.

Itinerary

P1: 5c, 18m
P2: 5c+, 22m
P3: 6a+, 33m
P4: 6b, 15m
P5: 6a+, 25m
P6: 6a, 18m

Descent

Abseil down the climb.

Gear

Set of cams to #3

Notes

Take some beers, put them in river and enjoy them after the climb.





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16/08/2025 Celina Solari

Via plaisir, bello il posto. Ad agosto arriva il sole alle 12.00. Parking: 46.050607,10.937081

Beauty
First ascent
Vittorio Giovannella, Francesco Salvaterra 4/2019
By
Francesco Salvaterra, Mountain Guide
Orientation
West
Length
150m
Difficulty
6b
Obligatory difficulty
(6a/A0)/RS2/II
Published on
15/05/2020

Route



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