Ferru e Cuaddu

Ferru e Cuaddu is set in a panoramic and striking location, right on the sea’s edge. The walls consist of high-quality limestone and offer diverse climbing styles, including slabs, vertical faces, and overhangs, catering to different preferences.
The routes were equipped by Mariano Zurru and Giorgio Pusceddu, with assistance from Diego Zurru and Cristiano Congia.
Currently, there are 23 routes, but the crag will be expanded with new bolting on the seaside section and a nearby wall. We kindly ask climbers to refrain from independent bolting initiatives and to communicate any proposals or modifications directly to the route setters.
While the walls have been cleaned, this is a new crag, so wearing a helmet is strongly advised.
Anchors currently consist of two titanium glue-in bolts linked by a cordelette and a titanium rappel ring. The installation of complete anchor chains may be considered in the future.
Important note about titanium: Titanium is particularly prone to wear from rope friction. We ask seconds to leave their carabiners on the anchors until the rappel maneuver is complete. Thank you for your cooperation.
Cars can be parked along SP83 at kilometer 27.300, in the wide roadside pullout (GPS coordinates: 39.411516, 8.406570), directly above the crag.
From the parking area, a trail heading south leads to the base of the wall in about 5–10 minutes (GPS coordinates: 39°24'40"N 8°24'18"E). A short exposed section is secured with a handrail for support.
PeriodThe crag is accessible for most of the year, except during the coldest months and on days with strong maestrale winds.
NotesSpecial thanks to all the local businesses who supported the project:
– Gastronomia Cottu e Pappau;
– L'oasi di Licia disco bar;
– Stabilimento balneare il Bananao;
– Ristorante Stella Maris ;
– Bistrot Galleria 13 Santiago;
– Gastronomia Macelleria da Dany;
– Aqua Drink and Fine Restaurant;
– B&b Mille Soli;
– Ristorante la Baia da Tore;
– Soul Wave surf shop;
– Ristorante la Privilegiata;
– Bar Fratelli Orrù ( Il dopo lavoro );
– Stabilimento Balneare DidoBeach;
– Sosta camper San Nicolò;
– B&B Alelca;
– Escursioni Mormora Tour;
– Pasticceria Farina Amore & Fantasia;
To Mariano Zurru and Giorgio Pusceddu for having bolted the crag and patiently taught us the tricks of the trade.
Those who cleaned the crag and path: Willy Sardu, Nicola Porcu, Eleonora Caccia, Giacomo Rombi, Luca e Sandro Chessa, Nicolò Putzu.
All those who supported the project: Valentina Andreucetti, Elisa Abendroth, Matteo Puggioni, Alessia Ecca Alessandro Congia, Margherita Manca, Gaia Frau, Sofia Cappai

N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cottu e Pappau | 6a | ||
2 | L'oasi di Licia | 6c | ||
3 | Il Bananao | 6c | ||
4 | Stella Maris | 6c | ||
5 | L'accademia dei matti | 7b | ||
6 | Da Dany | 6b+ | ||
7 | La tomba della civetta | 6a+ | ||
8 | Mille Soli | 5b | ||
9 | LaBaiadaTore | 5b | ||
10 | Soul Wave | 6a+/b | ||
11 | Mormora Tour | 6c | ||
12 | Fratelli Orrù | 6a+ | ||
13 | DidoBeach | 6b | ||
14 | Sosta camper San Nicolò | 6b+ | ||
15 | Bungee Jumpin | 6b+ | ||
16 | Il confessionale | 6c | ||
17 | Alelca | 6a+ | ||
18 | La Privilegiata | 6a | ||
19 | Farina Amore & Fantasia | 5c | ||
20 | Aqua | 5b | ||
21 | Galleria 13 | 5c | ||
22 | Gatto nel carbone | 6b | ||
23 | Koka Kola | 6b |