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Somnium

First ascent: Manuel Gietl, Michael Kofler, Florian Wenter 2017-2018
By: Michael Kofler
Area: Dolomites, Group: Fanis, Peak: Neunerspitze - Sasso delle Nove - Piza dales Nü, Height: 2968 m, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Somnium up the South Face of Neunerspitze (Sasso delle Nove) offers fabulous slab climbing, up exceptional rock, surpassed perhaps only by the panorama from the 2968m summit. The pitches and belays are protected with bolts, 2 medium sized Friends are nevertheless needed to integrate the insitu gear. Our route does not cross any existing climbs.

GETTING THERE

From Pederü to Alpe di Fanes (2 hours on foot, 40 minutes with e-bike) + 1.5 hours to base of the route
N 46.6279143 E 11.9800431

ROUTE

P1: 40m, 4a, 3 bolts, 1 peg
P2:
35m, 5a, 2 bolts, 1 peg, 1 thread
P3:
40m, 5c, 6 bolts
P4:
50m, 5b, 3 bolts
P5:
35m, 5a, 3 bolts, 1 peg
P6:
35m, 6b, 7 bolts
P7:
30m, 7a, 9 bolts
P8:
15m + 20m, 5b, belay at mid-height, 2 bolts
P9:
40m, 6a+, 9 bolts
P10:
50m, 5b, 3 bolts, 1 thread
P11:
50m, II/III, 2 threads

DESCENT

Hydrographic left of the summit with 3 abseils down the gully, or down the via ferrata.

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DIFFICULTY

7a

LENGTH

325m

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