Sole Incantatore - Aguglia di Goloritzé
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Maurizio Oviglia
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© 2023 - Petzl Distribution - Klaus Dell’Orto
Sole Incantatore is a beautiful climb up Aguglia di Goloritzé, perhaps the most popular on this huge limestone tower and without a doubt the most repeated multipitch sport climb in Sardinia. Established by abseil in 1995 by Maurizio Oviglia, it was rebolted in May 2020 by Oviglia with Enrico Barca. During the revolting a 5c independent start was added between the climbs via Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento put up by Manolo and Alessandro Gogna and Easy Gymnopedie. Furthermore, a belay was added to the first 45m pitch meaning this can be split in two. It also means that an abseil with a 70m rope is now possible. 40.083148913308605, 9.678214930590881
Follow the SS125 from Cala Gonone to Baunei. At Baunei follow signs for San Pietro - Golgo. before reaching the small chruch turn off right along a dirt track following signs for Goloritzè-Piscinas. Drive to the end of this road and park at Su Porteddu, Campeggio-Bar. In spring, summer and autumn the car park and path require a toll (currently 6 euros). 40.10723281989372, 9.690319871455296
AccessFrom here an obvious path leads first uphill then gently downhill in about an hour down to the beach and Aguglia di Goloritzè.
ItineraryP1: 5c
P2: 6b
P3: 6b+
P4: 6b+
P5: 6c
Abseil down the route
GearBolted sport climb. 2 x 60m rope or 1 x 70m
NotesShade in the afternoon
Maps/BibliographyPietra di Luna trad & multipitches by Maurizio Oviglia. Fabula Editore, 2014.
Baunei (2021) Sport Climbing. Di Maurizio Oviglia
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Bellissima via, per niente banale, assolutamente da fare. Il penultimo tiro di 6b+ potrebbe facilmente essere 6c, idem l'ultimo tiro potrebbe facilmente essere almeno 6c+. Beautiful climb, by noi means straightforward, certainly worth repeating. The penultimate pitch graded 6b+ could easily be 6c, ditto the last pitch which could easily be 6c+. At least...