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Via Locatelli

First ascent: Duregon, Locatelli 4 June 1974
By: Umberto Bado, Mountain Guide
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Valle Orco, Peak: Sergent, Country: Italy, Region: Piemonte

Via Locatelli is the easiest crack climb up Sergent. A great classic, highly popular at the weekends, it provides varied and fun climbing with just one challenging move and a characteristic claustrophobic section! An excellent introduction to the valley and its grades. All belays are bolted.


Drive up the Orco valley along the road #460. After Noasca drive through the long tunnel and at its end turn off left. After 200 meters park in front of Camping la Peschera, below the obvious Sergent face on the hydrographic left.


Take the path that starts from the tablet with the description of the valley walls and walk up through the forest to reach the base of Sergent. Coast the wall to the right, walk below Lost Arrow (the obvious detached monolith). Walk past the crack Paparetta Show (5c) and follow the tack to the base of the corner and start of the route.


Valle dell'Orco 2010 di Maurizio Oviglia, Edizioni Versante Sud

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