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Last Minute

First ascent: Jörn Heller, Robert Jasper 10/2014. FFA: 17/10/2014
By: Robert Jasper
Area: Apennines, Group: Sicilian Apennines, Peak: Monte Gallo, Height: 400m, Country: Italy, Region: Sicily

Alpine multi-pitch that requires excellent technical ability and superb trad climbing skills. 200m high, the route overhangs 30m making a retreat very difficult. The rock quality is good and the route follows a line of tufas. Due to the proximity to the sea conditions may vary considerable. The face is in the shade from the early afternoon onwards.

GETTING THERE

Reach Palermo, Sicily.

ACCESS

From Palermo reach Mondello and the entrance to the nature reserve (entrance € 0,5/person or 5 €/car). Follow the road for about 500 meters to a small harbor, then scramble up left to the face. From the entrance circa 25 minutes on foot.

ROUTE

P1: 6b, 25m, 1 bolt
P2: 7a/b, 20m, 1 bolt
P3: 7b, 30m, 1 BH, 2 bolts
P4: 7c/c+, 40m, 5 bolts
P5: 6b/c, 25m, 1 bolt
P6: 7b/c, 40m, 4 bolts, 1 peg
P7: 5a, 20m
All belays are equipped with 2 M10 bolts.

GEAR

1 x 80m rope or 2 x 40m ropes.
1 set of Camalots: 0-4, 1 set of nuts, long slings for the threads.
Insitu 25 stainless steel M10 bolts and 3 pegs.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7c/c+

FACE

NE

LENGTH

200m

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LINK

www.robert-jasper.de

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