Copia link
Flaviano Bessone
1 / 7
Nicholas Hobley
Castello dell'Iride has become one of the most popular crags in southern Sardinia, and now offers more than 60 routes of all grades with a a magnificent view onto the Masua sea. The crag faces SE and is comprised of a vertical, sharp whiteish yellow limestone. Many of the newer routes require a 70m rope and plenty of quickdraws. Route names are written on the base of the crag.
From the Masua beach follow the dirt track to its end (do not park the car close to the Porto Flavia mine or the entry gate). A path leads right from the mine’s entrance (yellow marker) in less than 10 mins to the crag. To get to Placca dei Gigli Marini follow the path that leads off from the single isolated tree.
Logistics"Il Castello di Gioiosa Guardia" run by Giuseppe Saba and Betty Mascia, at Villamassargia, via XXV Aprile 15, tel. 3400805191-3383199454 info@gioiosaguardia.it, www.gioiosaguardia.it The B&B "A Ca' da Pria" is temporarily closed at Nebida, via Centrale 256. Tel. +39 0781 474001 Fax +39 0781 474107, e-mail: acadapria@iol.it
PeriodThe crag faces SE and in winter receives the sun until 15.00, while in summer it receives the shade from about 16.00.
ClimbTechnical and sustained limestone climbing.
BibliographyPietra Di Luna - a guide to sport climbing in Sardinia - Crags by Maurizio Oviglia (Fabula 2011)
See all photos| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lovely Licia | 25m | |
6b+ |
| 2 | Alba tragica | 20m | |
6a+ |
| 3 | Tramonto rosso | 35m | |
7c |
| 4 | Tramonto rosso diretta | 35m | |
8a |
| 5 | Red Sunset | 35m | |
7a |
| 6 | Future women | 25m | |
6a |
| 7 | Camilla strilla | 34m | |
6b |
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 8 | Il dono dell'obliquità | 21m | |
5b |
| 9 | Goten | 17m | |
5b |
| 10 | Ghoan | 20m | |
5a |
| 11 | Goku SS 3 | 25m | |
5c |
| 12 | 6 bellissimo | 23m | |
6a/b |
| 13 | Lebordei | 21m | |
6c+ (6b+ a sin.) |
| 14 | Super Ossi Louigo | 20m | |
6c |
| 15 | Pistilloni arrenegau | 28m | |
6c |
| 16 | I sogni di Francesca | 25m | |
6b+ |
| 17 | Fatima | 25m | |
6b |
| 18 | Non desiderare... | 25m | |
6a+ |
| 19 | Blatoon | 22m | |
6a/6a+ |
| 20 | Down by law | 22m | |
6a |
| 21 | Cane Blobly | 20m | |
6a |
| 22 | Fisso | 10m | |
5c/6a |
| 23 | Brava brava! | 10m | |
5c |
Routes
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 22 | Bellixeddu | 23m | |
5a |
| 22 | Grazie Bruno | 23m | |
|
| 24 | Serkusmaikus | 10m | |
5c |
| 25 | Genitori stressati | 35m (10+25) | |
6b |
| 26 | Specchio dellemie brame | 35m (10+25) | |
7b |
| 27 | Pointbreak | 35m (10+25) | |
6b |
| 28 | Giochi di spade | 40m | |
5c |
| 29 | Il taglio invisibile | 35m | |
6a+ |
| 30 | Supergulp | 34m | |
6a |
| 31 | Tintin dans la nuit | 34m | |
6b+ |
| 32 | Digital diary | 23m | |
6a |
| 33 | Louis Armstrong | 40m | |
5a |
| 34 | Anche i ragni si baciano | 38m | |
6c+, 6b |
| 35 | Piticheddumamannu | 29m | |
6b+ |
| 36 | Capitan Findus | 25m | |
6b+ |
| 37 | Tra il dire e il fare | 25m | |
7a |
| 38 | C'é di mezzo il mare | 28m | |
6c+ |
| 39 | Demian | 50m | |
6a+, 6b |
| 40 | Rispetto | 20m | |
6c+ |
| 41 | Cavallo bendato | 20m | |
6a+ |
| 42 | Flash | 23m | |
6a+ |
| 43 | Lampu | 23m | |
6a+ |
| 44 | Lo strizzacervelli | 32m | |
6c |
| 45 | Pensando a Simone | 29m | |
6b |
| 46 | La maschera del tempo | 25m | |
6a |
| 47 | Galline in fuga | 34m | |
7a/7a+ |
| 48 | Galline padovane | 34m | |
7a |
| 49 | Galline & patatine | 34m | |
7a |
| 50 | Ci vuole un'altra vita | 25m | |
7a |
| 51 | Voglio le patatine | 34m | |
6c |
| 52 | Ciccio pasticcio | 25m | |
6a/b |
| 53 | ExA3 | 25m | |
6a+ |
| 54 | Leggia, brutta emala | 20m | |
6b+ |
| 55 | Su pippiu | 20m | |
6c |
| 56 | Body and soul | 20m | |
6b+ |
| 57 | Polli con le ruote | 20m | |
6a+ |
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 58 | Chi vive vola | 25m | |
6c |
| 59 | Chi vola vale | 26m | |
6c+ |
| 60 | Chi non vola é un vile | 29m | |
7a |
| 61 | Tnt | 29m | |
6b |
| 62 | Ma va là, migliacco! | 28m | |
6a/6a+ |
| 63 | Bisbetica | 11m | |
7a/b |
| 64 | Magnetica | 10m | |
7a |
| 65 | Dolomitica | 8m | |
6b |
| 66 | Yosemitica | 8m | |
6c |
Comments
