The wave of trad climbing in Valle Po continues. Acting on a hunch by Tristano Gallo, a new crag called Wonderland has been created at the famous Roccia Re climbing area in the Piemonte region of NW Italy.
Wonderland is the second trad crag in Valle Po and it offers superb climbing up rough-grained granite with mid-grad routes: 15 climbs circa 20m high, with difficulties ranging from 5b - 7a and the majority being circa 6c.
An instant classic is the aptly named “Fuori Misura”, a 20m high offwidth graded 7a R1+ which is bound to be appreciated by all off-width climbers. "It's certainly worth repeating" is what others have already commented.
Combined with the nearby Trad Area, Wonderland offers a host of mid-grade routes which offer some fantastic, unparalleled climbing.
One of the local climbers, Alberto Fantone, stated: “Cleaning the cracks was hard work and pruning the crag required lots of time, but seeing the result it was certainly worth it."
Drive up the Valle Po to the fork for Oncino, head to Crissolo, after circa 2 km turn off right for Ciampetti di Ostana. After 1 km drive past three hairpin bends, park on the right 100m after the final bend and just before the church. The crag is clearly signoposted on a tree. Approach: follow the path through the Borgata, after 100 m ascend left to the sign, from here descend through the chestnut forest and follow the red markers to reach the crag in 10 minutes.
Almost all the routes follow cracks; plenty of jamming required and some laybacking.
All belays are equipped with 10mm stainless steel bolts and abseil chain.
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