The Roaches

Access
From Leek drive north along the A53 towards Buxton, at Upper Hulme turn off left and continue along the road until the crag springs into view on the right. park in the lay-bys on the right. Logistics
Campsite with holiday cottages at The Roaches Tea Rooms, just opposite the crag. Period
Spring and autumn. On clear winter days the friction is at its best, but beware of strong winds. Climb
Gritstone climbing at its best: technical, balancy, powerful and pumpy all at the same time. The crag is suitable for families. Notes
The Peak District
 Squashed between the northern industrial cities Manchester and Sheffield, the Peak District has always been a haven of peace for those fleeing these massive industrial metropolis in search of solitude and untouched nature. Dotted within this rolling countryside are rugged gritstone outcrops, each unique, each with routes of almost all grades and danger levels. "God's own rock", as it is often described, can be so addictive that it is not uncommon to see climbers continuing even when it rains; saner wet weather alternatives include a visit to one of the numerous indoor climbing walls or an enormous mug of tea in a cafe.

Roaches Access Issues
Climbers are asked to take note of the following: Please keep to the established footpaths and try not to make short-cut across open moorland areas.
As a result of the Roaches popularity, parking has become a serious issue. Limited parking is available and climbers should aim to arrive early at weekends and bank holidays or go elsewhere. Do not block roadways, you will hinder emergency vehicles and you will be fined. Do not leave anything on show - thieves are active in the area For full information check out www.thebmc.co.uk


Photo: Tina Gardner on the crux of Yong HVD. Photo Niall Grimes Bibliography
The Roaches - Definitive Climbing Guide from the BMC to Routes and Bouldering on Staffordshire Grit by Niall Grimes, BMC


 Western Grit - by Chris Craggs and Alan James, RockFax