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Million Reasons - Aiguille de la Brenva

First ascent: Gianpaolo Ducly, Ezio Marlier 12/2016
By: Ezio Marlier, Mounta Guide
Area: Western Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Aiguille de la Brenva, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Ephemeral mixed modern climb uo the east face of Aiguille de la Brenva.

GETTING THERE

Approach by ascending from Pavillon (not recommended) or by descending from Punta Helbronner with skis along the Toula Glacier (40 minutes).

ACCESS

P1: M5 ascend by trending lefwards up ice, frozen turf. Great pitch, belay on two nuts 55m
P2: M4 from the belay climb 5m to the right and follow the corner, past ice and frozen turf up the gully, belay on the right, spike (slingh) 50m
P3: IV rock, past rocky slabs then follow the corner with frozen turf, belay on 2 spikes
P4: snow slope rightwards, belay on pegs and nuts
P5: 100m snow slope up to the base of the beautiful gully, belay right 45°
P6: WI4 beautiful icy gully with delicate exit, belay on the left, peg 50m
P7: WI5 beautiful ice pitch with a complicated intermediate section, belay left, spike and peg 45m
P8: M6+ overhanging start, difficult to protect, followed by beautiful gully and difficult finish 50m
P9: mixed climbing, not difficult (belay on spike)
P10: easy pitch to reach the ridge

GEAR

Full alpine rack. No gear left in-situ. Take gear to backup all abseils and the belays.

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Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

WI5, M7

LENGTH

400 m

LINK ZONE

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